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Ripping vinyl
I recall seeing a previous topic that discussed the process of ripping vinyl to computer. Couldn't seem to find it.
Anyway, I'm looking to rip about 30 or so vinyl for a gig next week and was probably just going to do it via my 1210 and my DJM 3000 via my PC soundcard.
I'm looking to get some pointers on getting the best sound possible for minimum cost.
Any pointers on how to achieve this would be appreciated. I will of course check the levels of tracks prior to recording, clean stylus, records etc.
Just wondering if a simple case of 1210 > pc > cd is a crude process or would be regarded as efficient enough.
I should point out that the venue holds around 250 people.
I did take my 1210's to the previous gig but the booth was in a terrible state and it could barely support the weight and was very shaky.
Thanks in advance.
Re: Ripping vinyl
| quote: |
| Originally posted by A.B Just wondering if a simple case of 1210 > pc > cd is a crude process or would be regarded as efficient enough. |
only normalize if you want to flatten the piss out of your tracks..which can sound way worse than vinyl pops.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Zyklon_Jay only normalize if you want to flatten the piss out of your tracks..which can sound way worse than vinyl pops. |
you don't know how to use gains? normalizing tracks does not work in your favor sorry. what do I know? I only own a few thousand records.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Zyklon_Jay you don't know how to use gains? normalizing tracks does not work in your favor sorry. what do I know? I only own a few thousand records. |
wrong again.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Zyklon_Jay wrong again. |
I use the Denon DPDJ-151 TT's, digital out to an Alesis ML-9600. I record it normal. No compression, no boosts. The stylus I use already has great output which usually puts out a -4 db level on the meter of the Alesis. If the track sounds weird (i.e. really bad vinyl pops, bad hiss, etc) I'll dump it over to Pro Tools for clean up and I never normalize.
A 1210 to a 3000 to soundcard should work fine. Not the best option but it does work. I would look into a TT with a digital out and/or usb connection. That way you can bypass the mixer altogether.
normalization cuts the peaks out of your tracks and lowers the dynamic range. sometimes your get ugly hums or volume fluctuations. mixers have those gain knobs because all tracks are mastered with different amouts of headroom -- which is not true for the budget trance put out these days.
part of the skill of being a dj is to learn to eq and set levels properly.
getting rid of the clicks and hiss is rather hard in most cases. in the clubs hissing is not that noticable tho.
i rip with my friend's 1210 and edit/eq with izotope rx & sony acid.
Many thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated!
| quote: |
| Originally posted by pozz normalization cuts the peaks out of your tracks and lowers the dynamic range. sometimes your get ugly hums or volume fluctuations. mixers have those gain knobs because all tracks are mastered with different amouts of headroom -- which is not true for the budget trance put out these days. part of the skill of being a dj is to learn to eq and set levels properly. getting rid of the clicks and hiss is rather hard in most cases. in the clubs hissing is not that noticable tho. i rip with my friend's 1210 and edit/eq with izotope rx & sony acid. |
Normalizing the track to peak at 0dB does not cut any peaks at all. It just raises the amplitude of the signal so that the loudest signal peaks at exactly 0dB, not above or below. RMS normalization is a whole another thing and you can cut peaks with that quite easily. But doing an RMS normalization to 0dB is something even an idiot wouldn't do, at least after hearing how it sounds like.
someone is gonna get owned pretty soon 
| quote: |
| Originally posted by skip Seriously WTF? I don't mean to sound harsh but are you all fucking clueless? Normalizing the track to peak at 0dB does not cut any peaks at all. It just raises the amplitude of the signal so that the loudest signal peaks at exactly 0dB, not above or below. RMS normalization is a whole another thing and you can cut peaks with that quite easily. But doing an RMS normalization to 0dB is something even an idiot wouldn't do, at least after hearing how it sounds like. |

| quote: |
| Originally posted by Zyklon_Jay have you ever played on anything bigger than the Krk rockits in your bedroom? ![]() stop posting plz. |
Sony xplode?
epic lol at "man up".
keep doing it wrong then.
Great argument! That really showed me! I really love your type of people. More interested in "being cool" than being right, can never admit they're wrong. I wouldn't even be surprised if you thought you actually are right. Maybe it'd be good for you to go check out the facts instead of talking bullshit based on god knows what hearsay. Also questioning your current knowledge is not a bad thing you know. You might actually learn something.
Anyway, I hope that you'd stop spreading false information because that's not really doing any good for anyone. But I suspect you'll come back with some funny reply again instead of actually trying to prove your point or even having any sort of an actual conversation. 
I won the argument because it only takes a few words from me for you to type a paragraph of rage that I didn't read.
you are still wrong. I didn't even get into the headroom argument yet because it would be wasted on you. everything sounds phatter when it is loud. it isn't rave if you aren't playing in the red.
amateurs.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Zyklon_Jay I won the argument because it only takes a few words from me for you to type a paragraph of rage that I didn't read. you are still wrong. I didn't even get into the headroom argument yet because it would be wasted on you. everything sounds phatter when it is loud. it isn't rave if you aren't playing in the red. amateurs. |
I bet you think that headroom is what happens when you buy a hat that is too big. I'm sure the stuffed animals you play for don't notice.
This is a good article that explains in simple terms what normalization is and how it works:
http://www.hometracked.com/2008/04/...-normalization/
It's mainly focused on producing though, but if you can understand what is written there, then that shouldn't provide any problems in applying these thoughts to what's been discussed here.
I linked that article just so people wouldn't think normalization = bad and flattens your tracks and clips the peaks. What Zyklon_Jay and pozz are referring to is most likely RMS normalization which has pretty much nothing to do with what I was talking about, or they just don't know what they're talking about.
Also one note about headroom:
Xone:92 outputs have pretty much headroom and the NI Audio 8 DJ has loads headroom as well to ensure that there will be no clipping. When recording a set with the Audio 8 DJ when playing with Traktor the combined headroom of both the Xone:92 and the NI Audio 8 DJ lead to the signal peaking at around -15 dB or so on the recording if you peak at 0dB on the Xone:92 meters. Now, without normalization this would sound rather quiet. That is easily solved by normalizing it to 0dB, which has NO EFFECT WHATSOEVER on the dynamic range of your recording nor will it cut anything off. Just saves you the trouble of cranking up your stereo/iPod/whatever you're listening to the mix on (and also lowering the volume when your ears have been blasted by the next track which peaks at 0dB).
more questions about the subject please... not normalization. i have some interest in recording thousands of vinyls to best possible DJ format, digital media, please. Don't know a thing about sound cards either and all I have is a netbook with an Atom intel processor, thats all I know.
thinking of getting some cheap vinyl-to-mp3 ION USB turntable. Would that do the job for me? Really I just want the best possible sound quality i can get for composing trance mixes on my netbook, but all I have is vinyl and no turntables... any suggestions at all?
brain library modified skip (don't take jay so seriously man) -- still, adding additional processing to a track after it has already been converted on not-so-stellar equipment won't do much good.
@justin - i got lucky because my friend has a Technics 1210 with a Shure M55 needle and Creative soundcard. it isn't going to give fantastic sound, not for archival, but for mixes it works.
i used this site to learn about the analog gear (tricks like, don't place your turntable on the same desk as your computer or it will record unintentionally clicks and keystrokes): http://pwp.att.net/p/s/community.dl...upid=356552&ck=
@Justin. I haven't used the ION system, but I have read some good things about it. It's probably not the best system to use but good for its price. Its usb out straight to the computer and it comes with software. For soundcards not sure, haven't looked into TT cards. One thing you do want is a good stylus. Like the M55 or the one I use, Ortofon Archiv.
Another thing you may want to consider is isolating the turntable from unwanted noises. I use these for my transfers.
http://www.planetdj.com/i--FREEFLOAT
You can buy them at almost any music store.
| quote: |
| Originally posted by Brandt Slater Another thing you may want to consider is isolating the turntable from unwanted noises. I use these for my transfers. |
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