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-- Some DJ'ing questions from me
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| Originally posted by Eugene p.s. quddha, I've found a way to keep the platter running -- not only stop the record by the edge, but also lift it up just a little bit, at that edge  |
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| Originally posted by quddha just a question, how do you make corrections on the numark? like sometimes if its too slow i give it a little push on the label, or if its too fast, i touch the platter to slow it down a bit... |
ok, i have 2 years experience with Gemini xl1500 mk2's and im guessing they have similar torque.
Im abit late in this thread so i guess youve got the slipmat prob sorted, I think you were gettin confused with the Rubber matt and the felt matt. You dont need the rubber matts what so ever and are made for ppl just using a single deck to play, not mix.
Holding the record, waiting to release it on a cue point:
if you hold the record with your hand over to the outside as far as poss then it will feel alot lighter, dont hold the record near the label. Its physics ... like if you are trying to undo a bolt with a spanner and holding the spanner near the pivit point, it will be almost impossible to turn... where as if you held the spanner right near the end it will turn easy....
If u press hard on the vinyl the platter WILL slow and probably stop. This is because of your low torque.. I went from Belt drives to directs expecting a dramatic change in torque... But i was dissapointed to find there wasnt much difference.
This can be helped as someone else said ealier about using a brown paper. Also if u cut a carrier bag from a supermarket into a circle and use that UNDERNEITH the slipmat then this will also reduce friction.
I definatley do not advice using the start and stop buttons for cueing!! Maybe its ok with 1200's but not decks like ours. The best way to do it is
Get the cue point you want, typically the first beat of the record, hold it LIGHTLY with your hand (as said earlier) near to the edge of the record. when the cue point comes on the tune you are mixing into give the tune in your hand a LITTLE push forward, (this may not be nessacary with high torque turntables) Then...
here comes the beat mixing...
There isnt much advice anyone can give you on this. This is what you have got to learn for yourself...
You have got to determine which beat is which... which at first really does seem completely impossible and extremily frustrating. But practise makes perfect and thats the only way to get good.
I personally do not use my fingers to speed up the record. I find it way way way more accurate to move the pitch up and down to match them. And i DEFINATLY do not recomend bpm counters!!!!! To be quite honest if i was you i would cover them up, you will never learn looking and relying on them! My mate has BPM counters on his mixer, and i never use them , never. There not that good anyway to be honest.
And as for the mixer..
Hmm sounds like a new mixer is needed.
If you still want a BPM counter then i advise the CITRONIC MSX-2. Very good value for money. I have the MSX-1 which i love and wouldnt get rid of it. Well unless some1 chukced a DJM - 500/600 on me lap!
anyway i hope i have helped you , if you could be arsed to read the whole thing! lol.
thanks a lot, DaveC!
but when you talk about the pitch control adjustments, suppose two songs are out of phase and you move the pitch control on one of them. Don't you have to move it BACK afterwards? Can you elaborate on why that is much more accurate?
thanks!
Ok heres the deal...
Your decks ( i think) have a +/- 10% pitch technics have 8%.
so the when the you move the pitch down to setting number 2, this means that it is playing 2% faster than the original speed of the record.
So in theory , if you knew the original pitch of both tunes then you could work out what setting to put the pitch on.. here is an example...
Deck A -------------> Mixing Into ----------------> Deck B
Ralphie B ------------------------------------------Rising Star
(138 BPM Original Speed)--------------------(140 BPM Original speed)
So we need to go from 138 BPM upto 140, thats 2 BPM extra, but DONT think that this means 2 on the pitch control, the pitch is in a % NOT BPM, so if you do the maths, 138/140 x 100 = 98.57 which means that
exactly 1.42857142857122857% needs to be added in order to make these tunes spin at the exact same speed.
Of course this definatly isnt a practical method to mix with, im just trying to get you to understand how the pitch works.
and you will never get the pitch control in this exact position of course!
Once the pitch is in this position, it stays there, and does not need to be moved back to 0, doing so will slow the tune (ralphie B) right back down to 138 BPM. Which would mean double beats going all over the shot.
Hope this helps with the concept of pitch controls.
PS do not try and work out the bpm and % increase, cos ull never get it in the exact position.
By the way, when mixing you only touch the pitch of the tune NOT playing out to the crowd, ( or maybe your pet hamster). You only toucg the turntable that is in your earphones. Otherwise the crowd/hamster will hear the tune slow/speed up, and err.. well thats not good,
i advise getting two tunes nearly the same speed, even getting to tunes the same would help you practise mixing.....
Regards
DaveC
I find using the pitch more accurate to speed and slow the tunes, more than using my hands because
1. Slowing down using the platter isnt a good idea with low torque. It is extremily easy to slow or even stop the platter. and then the tracks wont be lined up toether in there 4/4 beats.
2. I used to use my finger on the label to speed it up a notch. But i just find it quicker to use the pitch and i spose its what im used to.
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