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Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by l�cid should i be using 87 or 91 octane gas in my car? it's a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8 turbo. the gas cap says 87/91, and the opinions seemed to be pretty mixed on the VWvortex forums. some say use ONLY 91, others say it doesn't make a difference what you use. is it better for the engine/turbo to use 91? plz essplain... i didn't wanna ask on VWvortex 'cause i feel out of my element, lol.

I have the SAME EXACT year, make, and model - I use 93. Never use 87 on a turbocharged car. 91 is iffy, but you'll get by on it.

What's your username, on VWVortex?

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Originally posted by kid nyce yea 91 is fine, just make sure your air filter is clean thats all plugs, wires, engine/tranny oil, brakes, tires, and air/gas filters should be your maintence.. engine depending on oil 3k - syn 5k tranny 60K - 100K plugs n wires 40K - 60K gas filter 60k rotate tires every 5k brakes as needed air filter as needed

Fixed.

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Originally posted by EXTREMUM quote: Originally posted by kid nyce yea 91 is fine, just make sure your air filter is clean thats all plugs, wires, engine/tranny oil, brakes, tires, and air/gas filters should be your maintence.. engine depending on oil 3k - syn 5k tranny 60K - 100K plugs n wires 40K - 60K gas filter 60k rotate tires every 5k brakes as needed air filter as needed Fixed.

fixed.

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Originally posted by mezzir fixed.

You're sick. You have a problem, and you need to get it checked out. Quit stalking my posts!

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Originally posted by EXTREMUM You're sick. You have a problem, and you need to get it checked out. Quit stalking my posts!

hah you editing bastard, i hit reply to this but you ninjad it before i could get to it

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Originally posted by mezzir hah you editing bastard, i hit reply to this but you ninjad it before i could get to it

Yeah, I edited, because I accidently deleted the bracket to close the quote script.

Re: Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by EXTREMUM I have the SAME EXACT year, make, and model - I use 93. Never use 87 on a turbocharged car. 91 is iffy, but you'll get by on it. What's your username, on VWVortex?

i think it's lucidmyra. i forget... but lucid was taken. i've only made one post on there, and it was in the Milwaukee thread.

for those of you who are saying "NEVER" use 87 on a turbo, can you explain to me why you say that?

Re: Re: Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by l�cid for those of you who are saying "NEVER" use 87 on a turbo, can you explain to me why you say that?

because they're full of it

Re: Re: Re: Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by spiflicated because they're full of it

lol, i'm just curious... a lot of people seem to say that, without any facts to back it up.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by l�cid lol, i'm just curious... a lot of people seem to say that, without any facts to back it up.

Lower octane gas will leave more build-up and some people are extremely passionate about their cars and never want to give their car an inferior product (which, technically 87 is).

The thing is, most cars are built to run on 87, and they do perfectly fine on 87. I have friends with old piece of shit cars and they never put 87 in them. It's a waste of money because there really isn't anything wrong with using a good quality 87 gasoline (just don't buy it from Arco) - that's some dirty gasoline.

umm Curious now, in terms of pollution, is it the same to use 87 as 91? or it has no connection whatsoever?

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Originally posted by luisjb82 umm Curious now, in terms of pollution, is it the same to use 87 as 91? or it has no connection whatsoever?

im not shure, but i doubt it has a connection. either one is bad for the planet

I just laugh at seeing 'Tranny' quoted over and over again.

My tranny's about to DIE.

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Originally posted by Ang ' ela_ie My tranny's about to DIE.

you could probably find a new one on craigslist.

hey im on vwvortex too, i have like 4000+ posts on there. if you can afford it, get the best gas available to you - i always run 93 in my 2002 vr6. i would run at least 91 in your 1.8T if you cant afford 93.

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Originally posted by gehzumteufel normally id say 91, but since i have no clue on your driving style i cant say either is better. do you stomp on the gas? if so use 91. if you just put put around then 87 is fine since you wont be doing any heavy acceleration. kid nyce: the octane rating has nothing to do with a/f ratios. its all for detonation aka knock.

octane rating does play a part in AF ratio, if you have forced air induction like the part a turbo plays. increased hp/t.lb is determined by amount of cool air and fuel. if you're fuel is running 'RICH' alot of gas that burns quicker (higher octane) same goes for if you're fuel is running 'LEAN', meaning more air and less fuel or burns not as clean (lower octane).

knock/internal det usually identified by a CEL has nothing to do with octane ratings, it has to do with driving style. If you SLAM the gas you potentially feed too much gas into the engine thus creating a 'mini explosion' inside the engine. usually happens on automatic vehicles where drivers bring the RPMs up high enough before the redline, ease off the gas, then slam it passed the next set of gears. thus filling the engine with gas to raise the RPM, the over-acceleration at this point burns all the gas you filled in getting up the RPMs and causes a mini-explosion in the engine.

driving style and internal det/knock has nothing to do with the octane you're burning but more on the caution of how much air to fuel you are pushing especially with forced air induction.

I'm probably wrong but thats how i learned it...then again i haven't owned a car in probably like 4 years so i take the train now lol

frig 87,91 and 93 use Cam 3

Re: Re: Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by l�cid for those of you who are saying "NEVER" use 87 on a turbo, can you explain to me why you say that?

87 octane isn't stable enough to take on turbocharged engines. It can easily pre-ignite within the combustion chambers, and fry the everything inside the cylinder head. Visually, the results would be comparable to the consequences of a blown head gasket. Then, you can spend thousands on getting the motor rebuilt.

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Originally posted by kid nyce octane rating does play a part in AF ratio, if you have forced air induction like the part a turbo plays. increased hp/t.lb is determined by amount of cool air and fuel. if you're fuel is running 'RICH' alot of gas that burns quicker (higher octane) same goes for if you're fuel is running 'LEAN', meaning more air and less fuel or burns not as clean (lower octane). knock/internal det usually identified by a CEL has nothing to do with octane ratings, it has to do with driving style. If you SLAM the gas you potentially feed too much gas into the engine thus creating a 'mini explosion' inside the engine. usually happens on automatic vehicles where drivers bring the RPMs up high enough before the redline, ease off the gas, then slam it passed the next set of gears. thus filling the engine with gas to raise the RPM, the over-acceleration at this point burns all the gas you filled in getting up the RPMs and causes a mini-explosion in the engine. driving style and internal det/knock has nothing to do with the octane you're burning but more on the caution of how much air to fuel you are pushing especially with forced air induction. I'm probably wrong but thats how i learned it...then again i haven't owned a car in probably like 4 years so i take the train now lol

heres what i have been told by a bunch of people cause i at one time thought the same thing. RICH causes elevated n2o levels which causes the burn to be not as clean and causes higher heat and lost power. i could be wrong though too. we both could be partially right. i have no clue. i need to do the research again so that i understand this stuff fully. i just have never really taken the time. not something i personally am too concerned with as i dont have a crazy modified car.

Re: Re: Re: Re: question for the car buffs

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Originally posted by EXTREMUM 87 octane isn't stable enough to take on turbocharged engines. It can easily pre-ignite within the combustion chambers, and fry the everything inside the cylinder head. Visually, the results would be comparable to the consequences of a blown head gasket. Then, you can spend thousands on getting the motor rebuilt.

+1000

you def need to run high octane gas on forced induction engines. the higher the octane the less chance of pre-ignition. in essence 87 burns with less air needed than 93. listen to what this guy said. you dont wanna go spending thousands of dollars by saving 2 dollars every time you pump

First I'd just like to say hi to everyone. I've been browsing these forums for some time now and finally grew the balls to join. So be gentle you c0r whores, ok here goes.

Check your user manual and run whatever it tells you to run. Do not run 93 like some of these people are telling you to. An 87 or 91 will run stable enough and it will not pre-ignite. If that's what VW engineers are telling you to run then run it.

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Originally posted by gehzumteufel heres what i have been told by a bunch of people cause i at one time thought the same thing. RICH causes elevated n2o levels which causes the burn to be not as clean and causes higher heat and lost power. i could be wrong though too. we both could be partially right. i have no clue. i need to do the research again so that i understand this stuff fully. i just have never really taken the time. not something i personally am too concerned with as i dont have a crazy modified car.

Running Rich will cause high extremly high combustion temperatures which in turn will cause high levels of NOX. So you are correct gehzumteufel just the you got it backwards. Also if you run rich for a prolonged period of time you burn out the cat and bam there goes a couple of hundred dollars.

thanks for all the replies, guys.

i don't think we even have 93 around here, so that's not really an option. there might be a few gas stations that carry it, but the ones i go to usually only carry 87/89/91.

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Originally posted by Wicked Neo i guess that would depend on emissions and noise laws where you live. The only real difficulty in changing it out is freeing the old muffler from the rest of the system, putting a new one on is a 10 minute job

I got a second opinion and the other shop wanted $320 to replace the muffler. So I decided to do it myself. Wrong decision, everything that could go wrong did.

1. One of the bolts snapped while trying to loosen it. Now I need to take it to a shop to have them use a torch to loosen it.

2. The new oem muffler doesn't fit properly. There's a 2 inch gap between it and the center pipe. I presume that the center pipe was replaced previously with a generic pipe from a muffler shop so it doesn't work with an oem muffler.

The car is really loud and I can't drive it around like that so now I've got to go back to the muffler place pay then whatever they want and return the parts I bought.

Cor short vers: I lose.

Honda: 1
IGK: 0

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Originally posted by igottaknow I got a second opinion and the other shop wanted $320 to replace the muffler. So I decided to do it myself. Wrong decision, everything that could go wrong did. 1. One of the bolts snapped while trying to loosen it. Now I need to take it to a shop to have them use a torch to loosen it. 2. The new oem muffler doesn't fit properly. There's a 2 inch gap between it and the center pipe. I presume that the center pipe was replaced previously with a generic pipe from a muffler shop so it doesn't work with an oem muffler. The car is really loud and I can't drive it around like that so no I've got to go back to the muffler place pay then whatever they want and return the parts I bought. Cor short vers: I lose. Honda: 1 IGK: 0

LOL what did i tell you! take that shit to a professional! unless its an aftermarket exhaust (read: performance exhaust) its not as easy as it appears!

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