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-- digital cameras
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quote:

Originally posted by MikeyN 12x optical zoom, oh, and it has a viewfinder. you can keep your nikon, which is just more of a "wow" camera, its a toy to me. something like the S3 IS or A630 is a more rugged and robust camera, with tons of versatility they each have a dial on them that allow you to operate them in all the same modes as an SLR. and bumping up your iso? thats fantastic, but gives you much more noise.

the only thing i dont like about that camera is how the lcd screen has to fold out. personally, tahts very inconvient for me.

quote:

Originally posted by the unknown

quote:

Exif Sub IFD * Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 107/100 second = 1.07000 second * Lens F-Number/F-Stop = 32/10 = F3.20 * Exposure Program = normal program (2) * ISO Speed Ratings = 200 * Exif Version = 0220 * Original Date/Time = 0000:00:00 00:00:00 * Digitization Date/Time = 0000:00:00 00:00:00 * Components Configuration = 0x01,0x02,0x03,0x00 / YCbCr * Compressed Bits per Pixel = 2/1 = 2.00 * Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/10 = 0.00 * Max Aperture Value (APEX) = 34/10 = 3.40 Max Aperture = F3.25 * Metering Mode = pattern / multi-segment (5) * Light Source / White Balance = unknown (0) * Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode * Focal Length = 63/10 mm = 6.30 mm

your exposure time was 1 second, your iso was set to 200 Which is good, and your aperture was f/3.2. your problem was exposure time...

see the way a digital camera works is there is a part known as the shutter, which controls how long you allow light to make contact with the sensor. the sensor, is basically your "film" expose it to light, and whatever it "sees" gets transfered onto the film, only thing different, is this is an electrical component.

looking at the top line of those trusses, yes, you did stay quite still, but exposing that sensor to light for 1 full second is a very long time. and the subjects wont stand still for you either. im gonna edit this post, let me find an example for you.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeyN your exposure time was 1 second, your iso was set to 200 Which is good, and your aperture was f/3.2. your problem was exposure time...

i don't know much about cameras....but i do know that for a 1 second expsure ur hands have to be reallllly fuckin steady..like a tripod

quote:

Originally posted by Cro_Addict i don't know much about cameras....but i do know that for a 1 second expsure ur hands have to be reallllly fuckin steady..like a tripod

you got it ! gonna post an example in a sec.

aaaaaaand my card reader isnt working, fantastic.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeyN your exposure time was 1 second, your iso was set to 200 Which is good, and your aperture was f/3.2. your problem was exposure time... see the way a digital camera works is there is a part known as the shutter, which controls how long you allow light to make contact with the sensor. the sensor, is basically your "film" expose it to light, and whatever it "sees" gets transfered onto the film, only thing different, is this is an electrical component. looking at the top line of those trusses, yes, you did stay quite still, but exposing that sensor to light for 1 full second is a very long time. and the subjects wont stand still for you either. im gonna edit this post, let me find an example for you.

where the hell did you get all that information???? is it encoded into the picture or something?

taking a good picture in low light situations with a point and shoot camera is a very difficult task. A 1 second exposure will almost always be blurry, unless you're shooting a still subject on a tripod. Image Stabilization (IS) is one of the only efficient ways to combat this issue, (a few canon and other p&s have this feature) otherwise you basically need an SLR with a good lens to take great night time shots.

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Originally posted by the unknown where the hell did you get all that information???? is it encoded into the picture or something?

he now knows where you live and how much pr0n you have too...

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Originally posted by the unknown where the hell did you get all that information???? is it encoded into the picture or something?

posting from my laptop, got my card reader working, hopefully now i can show you the example i was talking about. just gotta upload it

well damn...

see how the lines on the floor and the structure are sharper than the moving objects (or the ones that cant stay still, i.e. the people) ?

this was a 4 second exposure, meaning i exposed the sensor to light for 4 seconds, i got a sharp shot because i was using a tripod, it could be better, i use a crappy tripod and the blast of wind from the subway moved it a little , which was just enough to blur it very slightly.

light travels in straight lines through air, if i move the camera im putting it in the way of different beams of light, so a "ghost" or second image is captured by the sensor over the original position if it is exposed long enough,this is how a blurry image is created.

i didnt need to get the info that it was a 1 second exposure to say that was your problem, i knew right away by looking at the shot, look at the guy closest to you in your shot, asian dude, i see at least 4 "ghosts" of him over the original position, what made it worse was because he was moving, if he stood still, it would still be blurry, but there wouldnt be those ghosts... it would look like that top most truss on the stage (very top of the image) where the line is blurry and out of focus

quote:

Originally posted by djbruuen taking a good picture in low light situations with a point and shoot camera is a very difficult task. A 1 second exposure will almost always be blurry, unless you're shooting a still subject on a tripod. Image Stabilization (IS) is one of the only efficient ways to combat this issue, (a few canon and other p&s have this feature) otherwise you basically need an SLR with a good lens to take great night time shots.

image stabilization actually wont help much when taking longer exposure shots within a club. why? the problem isnt camera shake. the problem is the exposure is often too long (when using night mode or aperture priority). because the lights are moving and people in the crowd are moving, every time the light hits a person they are at a different spot so if the light hits them 4 times in a second then you have blur.

its kinda hard for me to explain but thats what happens. i rarely go over 0.5 second exposure for lighting shots. some shots are as fast as 1/20 second when strobes are hitting hard.

ok, im starting to understand...the reason i get these ghost effects is because my exposure to the "film" is too long (even though 1 second isnt considered a long period of time to me) in the world of camera's...there should be some way for me to change the exposure time correct? i will have to read and find out...but ive read the manual before and i swear i didnt see anything! maybe i just didnt know what i was looking for =)

gotta go to work, will get to it again tonight...thanks you guys!

quote:

Originally posted by the unknown ok, im starting to understand...the reason i get these ghost effects is because my exposure to the "film" is too long (even though 1 second isnt considered a long period of time to me) in the world of camera's...there should be some way for me to change the exposure time correct? i will have to read and find out...but ive read the manual before and i swear i didnt see anything! maybe i just didnt know what i was looking for =) gotta go to work, will get to it again tonight...thanks you guys!

1 second can be quite long for a camera to be exposing light, cause nothing is staying completely still for a complete second. the problem is you need a long exposure to capture a lot of light in a dark club. A short exposure will clearer, but a lot darker and you will probably miss details in the picture you want.

Alright so how do you get a clear picture but also have enough light in it. If that shot was taken at an exposure of 1/10 of a second, it would a lot clearer but probably be too dark. How do you get a balance of both?

flash is your friend.

many point and shoot cameras allow you to turn off the flash manually, overriding it in automatic mode so that it does not fire.

solution would be to leave the flash on, and let the camera balance the available ambient light with the flash. its flash photography 101.

But flash kills all of the lighting in a club. It doesnt capture the atmosphere at all.

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Originally posted by yeahyeahyeah this is a must in all cameras now.

WRONG

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Originally posted by Speedy2k But flash kills all of the lighting in a club. It doesnt capture the atmosphere at all.

WRONG

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Originally posted by Speedy2k But flash kills all of the lighting in a club. It doesnt capture the atmosphere at all.

exactly what sasha said, WRONG.
flash is great for fill. use flash and set the exposure between 0.25 - 0.3 seconds, depending on what the lighting situation is. you gotta be patient when doing lighting shots and also be quick to change settings.

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Originally posted by the unknown its a nikon coolpix L3...first camera ive owned and just figured one was as good as any other for what i would be using it for

Okay just looked up some specs on the camera.. and the Camera is for sure part of the problem.

Max ISO sensitivity limited to 200 and always set automatically
--> Higher ISO can be helpful in darker settings
Slower than average shutter response
-->You want fast shutter response, okay maybe here they are just talking about how long it takes the shutter to engage as opposed to shutter speed??

High image noise in dim light and when flash is used at distances much beyond 11 feet
--> I guess clubs have dim lights, lol.
Modest battery life
No Shutter, Aperture priority, or manual exposure modes (not common in entry-level cameras though)
--> A lot of people have been suggeting you manually set these.. well with this camera you can not
Below average speed from shot to shot
A little slow to clear the buffer memory, and very slow shot to shot after buffer fills
No "Hide & Show" feature for info display in playback

Anyways.. we recently got a Canon SD800 IS, cause I refuse to carry the DSLR to clubs. Although Risky is awlays asking me to. Love the Canon brand and the SD800. The extra wide angle really helps taking pics of groups in a crowded club environment where you do not have alot of room. For a point and shoot I think you can't go wrong with this camera. SD1000 is a bit smaller but the wide angle on the 800 is worth it. Finally Risky doesn't complain that i didn't get her whole oufit meaning shoes..

quote:

Originally posted by electroYYZ Anyways.. we recently got a Canon SD800 IS, cause I refuse to carry the DSLR to clubs. Although Risky is awlays asking me to. Love the Canon brand and the SD800. The extra wide angle really helps taking pics of groups in a crowded club environment where you do not have alot of room. For a point and shoot I think you can't go wrong with this camera. SD1000 is a bit smaller but the wide angle on the 800 is worth it. Finally Risky doesn't complain that i didn't get her whole oufit meaning shoes..

never used a more fantastic camera that compact.

so basically my camera is a piece of shit...and i need a better one right? thats what im getting from all this! how much is that canon you are talking about?

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Originally posted by the unknown so basically my camera is a piece of shit...and i need a better one right? thats what im getting from all this! how much is that canon you are talking about?

go to henrys. listed on their website for $429 (henrys.com). what i like bout henrys is that you can upgrade within a year for half back.

quote:

Originally posted by jchung52 go to henrys. listed on their website for $429 (henrys.com). what i like bout henrys is that you can upgrade within a year for half back.

$419 at adencamera.com, their store is at yonge and dundas, across from what was sam the record man, if you're looking at the sd800is check out the a570is for $259, little but bulkier but wont break the bank either

quote:

Originally posted by MikeyN $419 at adencamera.com, their store is at yonge and dundas, across from what was sam the record man, if you're looking at the sd800is check out the a570is for $259, little but bulkier but wont break the bank either

the sd800is is soooo nice.
but if you're a pixel pirate, the older model (sd700) is better.

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