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Stylus Pressure

How important is it whilst setting the tone arm weight etc?

iv just got a pair of 1210's and the cartridges and styli came with it does not say what the reccomended stylus pressure is.

also anti skate has to be set at 0 iv been told. just wonderuing the reason behind this

what type are they?

Ortofon OM Pro S

planetdj.com's technical data says recommended is 4 grams. but that seems a bit much. i cant find what mine is, so i have to just go for it. i generally keep mine at about 2.5 and its fine.

iv got it set at 2.5 g now

and is it best to leave the anti skate at 0

quote:

Originally posted by Goldenleon iv got it set at 2.5 g now and is it best to leave the anti skate at 0

I would use 2.5 or 3 grames, which ever works without skipping.

Yes leave antiskate at 0 if you are back queueing.

ortofon carts i found work best at 3/3.5g.

the stylus pressure range on your carts is 2-5g, so anywhere within that bracket will be ok, but i wouldn't reccommend you go over 4g as record wear starts coming into play

quote:

Originally posted by Goldenleon iv got it set at 2.5 g now and is it best to leave the anti skate at 0

No. Your anti skating needs to be identical to your stylus pressure, so in your case, set it to 2,5. EXCEPT when you're scratching like hell! Then set it to 0.

Furthermore I would recommend 3,5g for Ortofon cartridges. Set the anti skating to 3 (an SL doesn't go any higher )

What i learned was too set the anti-skating to the same amount of g. as the tonearm weight itself. Mines are both at 3g.

[offtopic]

btw hi all, this is my first post on this forum Ive been reading and lurking for a very long time. Finally registered. Havent been able to notice a introduction part of the forum somewhere ...so here is my introduction.

[/offtopic]

quote:

Originally posted by DjVash No. Your anti skating needs to be identical to your stylus pressure, so in your case, set it to 2,5. EXCEPT when you're scratching like hell! Then set it to 0.

i would always keep the anti-skate at 0, simply because of back-cueing.

Anti-skate should be set at 0!!!!

OK let me get detailed with the anti-skate.

The true way to set it for normal (read forward only) playing is to get a one sided promo or a record that has a blank side. But the blank side up and put the needle in the middle now adjust the antiskate so the needle stays in the middle and does not move to the inside (spindle) or outside (edge).

The easier way to set anti-skate for normal (read forward only) playing is to just set the antiskate to the same as the stylus pressure.

If you are going to be backqueuing/scratching/(basically DJing) than you want to antiskate set to 0. It makes sense if you think about what antiskate does. When a record is playing the clockwise motion is causing extra pressure on the left side of the groove (the needle is pushed towards the spindle by the groove). To counter this force (or "skateing") the anti-skate applies pressure to the outside ot the record (or the right side of the groove). When properly set up these two forces will mostly balance out when the record is playing forword (going counterclockwise). However, when the record is going in reverse the opposise force is acting on the needle, it is getting pushed to the outside of the record by both the groove and the anti-skate. If you have your antiskate set to a positive number, this may explani why most of your skips happen when you backqueue.

which leads me into a bit of an off-topic question... why the hell don't technics make a straight arm deck? there would be no need for all the expensive bollocks they put in their tonearms then...

maybe thats the reason.

I have heard one reason for a curved tone arm is to reduce the amount of vibrationg transmited to the stylus tip.

quote:

Originally posted by tu_face which leads me into a bit of an off-topic question... why the hell don't technics make a straight arm deck? there would be no need for all the expensive bollocks they put in their tonearms then... maybe thats the reason.

Easy. The SL is 20 years old. They used different straight arms in those days for hifi use. Technics tried to make a different hifi turntable with an s in the arm, which has some advantages above a normal hifi table. Result: SL-1200. When it comes to hifi, it can easily be beaten (a decent hifi table whipes the floor with Technics and its clones). But they did found one that was excellent for DJ use. It was an accidental discovery.

Now, 20 years later, it hasn't changed a bit (which is exactly the reason why it's so expensive, nobody uses 20 year old components anymore). And I can understand why Technics doesn't see the advantages of an ASTS arm, because they're practically are none for mixing.

but there are a lot of people who use these decks for scratching. this is my point.

if they made a straight arm option i am sure a lot of people would snatch them up.

and again, you are wrong about the no-no mixing with ASTS arms. but i can't be arsed to go on about it again because its obvious you never listen to people with experience.

Correct, some scratchers can work fine with S-arm turntables (in some cases they have to, like the DMC championships because Technics sponsors that). An ASTS arm gives them some advantage, but I can understand if some turntablists don't need that.

And when it comes to experience: I've also had experience on ASTS turntables (a crappy TTX). It works, granted. But it's not the best solution.

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