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1200's pitch mod question

I am curious if anyone using the mk11's has done the mod where you take out the ball in the pitch slider to remove the 'click' at zero.
Is the pitch slider still sensitive aound the zero point or is it a more smooth transition?
Also does anyone know if the mk5 pitch slider would be a straight swap (I figure it would be) and if this has a smooth transition.
Thanx

just buy some 'milliput' putty (exposy putty) and apply a small half pea amount onto the hole where the ball bearing clicks into (while the slider is off zero). done push too hard. just enough to fill the hole but not go through! you wont get the iffyness around zero now unless the slider pot is getting old.

leave the putty to dry for about 4 hours and check it out. i did it for my mate and it works well. just make sure you dont push the putty so hard that it goes right through the hole.

beats forking out �30 for two new sliders...

Re: 1200's pitch mod question

quote:

Originally posted by skot_e I am curious if anyone using the mk11's has done the mod where you take out the ball in the pitch slider to remove the 'click' at zero. Is the pitch slider still sensitive aound the zero point or is it a more smooth transition? Also does anyone know if the mk5 pitch slider would be a straight swap (I figure it would be) and if this has a smooth transition. Thanx

Unless you disable the quartz lock by cutting one of the wires inside it will still quartz lock at 0% which could still cause two zero points, but the click will be gone. To do the full mod you need to snip that wire so it doesn't quartz lock at 0.

Thanx guys. Putty sounds alot easier than dismantling everything.
Zild : Which wire do you refer to ie is it obvious once opened, and also does this do the same as the mod of adding the resistors into the circuit (something I picked up from a search before posting this thread.
This is the LINK that explains what I mean.
Regards.

http://music.hyperreal.org/dj/pitch_slider/

Thanx Zild, but I think you misunderstood me. I have seen that page, that is what lead me to post this thread initially.
My question relate to the quartz lock wire you mentioned would need to be sniped.
Which wire is that, and does that do the same as the resistors in the link I provided.
Curious have you done this? Does it make the dex better to use?

quote:

Originally posted by skot_e Thanx Zild, but I think you misunderstood me. I have seen that page, that is what lead me to post this thread initially. My question relate to the quartz lock wire you mentioned would need to be sniped. Which wire is that, and does that do the same as the resistors in the link I provided. Curious have you done this? Does it make the dex better to use?

If you look at the bottom at Figure 5, it shows the wires you desolder. I believe they're the yellow and orange wire, and that disables the quartz lock circuitry.

As for your other question I have no idea if its the same as the resister mod. I just know it gets rid of the problem of having two zero points. The only mods I've done have been LEDs as the work isn't worth it because the zero click quartz lock doesn't bother me.

I see, yeah I shoulda re-read it. I read it weeks ago and was only thinking of the bottom part of the page. Sorry bout the confusion.
It's not so much the click that bugs me, but just how sensitive the pitch control is around -1 to +1 and how hard it can be to get it just right if need be.
cheers anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by skot_e I see, yeah I shoulda re-read it. I read it weeks ago and was only thinking of the bottom part of the page. Sorry bout the confusion. It's not so much the click that bugs me, but just how sensitive the pitch control is around -1 to +1 and how hard it can be to get it just right if need be. cheers anyway.

Yeah I don't like that either.

Haven't really read the thread, so I'm not sure if someone's already said this. But you need to snip the orange wire coming from the pitch control and you also need to snip the TP17 resistor.

hey koolaide it was mentioned, thanx anyway.
What I am really wanting to find out :

is the pitch slider still sensitive aound the zero point or is it a more smooth transition? i.e. how sensitive the pitch control is around -1 to +1 and how hard it can be to get it just right

Does this mod change that in any way. My understanding of the wire snip is that it disconnects the quartz timing.

Slightly off topic, but which deck has the non-click pitch? I think that would suit me perfectly as a third deck.

mk5 comes without it i think, and I assume the pitch sliders from that model can be used to replace the mk2 but not sure.
You can however do the mod's as listed in the previous posts and links on this thread to the mk2 to remove the ball bearing that creates the click.
Just gotta find out if it achieves what i want....

quote:

Originally posted by skot_e mk5 comes without it i think, and I assume the pitch sliders from that model can be used to replace the mk2 but not sure. You can however do the mod's as listed in the previous posts and links on this thread to the mk2 to remove the ball bearing that creates the click. Just gotta find out if it achieves what i want....

Yea, I'm kind of hesitant to start fucking around with the wiring of my 850 dollar techs.

quote:

Originally posted by Ministerio Slightly off topic, but which deck has the non-click pitch? I think that would suit me perfectly as a third deck.

m3d, mk5 and m5g as far as i know. correct me if im wrong.

quote:

Originally posted by Ministerio Yea, I'm kind of hesitant to start fucking around with the wiring of my 850 dollar techs.

my waranty is long gone, and I'm only prepared to do things I can reverse if I am not happy with the outcome.

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