TranceAddict Forums (www.tranceaddict.com/forums)
- Chill Out Room
-- Post your car system specs

Post your car system specs

JL XR650CSi Components in the front
JL VR690's in the back
JBLGTO75.4II 4channel amp for the front stage
Phoenix Gold RSD 12' powered by JL 500/1

Im loving the system im running right now. All I listen to is EDM and this setup sounds really really clean and hits hard. If i had to change anything it would be the front component speakers. Dont get me wrong, the XR's sound awesome but kinda wishing I had the Boston Pro60's now.

Re: Post your car system specs

quote:

Originally posted by zDmn JL XR650CSi Components in the front JL VR690's in the back JBLGTO75.4II 4channel amp for the front stage Phoenix Gold RSD 12' powered by JL 500/1 Im loving the system im running right now. All I listen to is EDM and this setup sounds really really clean and hits hard. If i had to change anything it would be the front component speakers. Dont get me wrong, the XR's sound awesome but kinda wishing I had the Boston Pro60's now.

EDM doesn't sound clean with 12" subs...

stock

1 - VW / Monsoon Audio System Deck - CD-Changer / CD / Cassette (2-DIN)
4 - Monsoon Tweeters
4 - Monsoon Full Range Speakers
1 - Monsoon Subwoofer

(above all standard with car)

PhatNoise MP3 Player unit, w/ cartridge (20 GB standard), USB cradle, and PC software.

I just got a new sony cd deck installed. sounds good with my 500 watt amp powering my 10" pioneer sub

Stock with some Panasonic CD player... but it gets the job done

stock subaru sound systen with Pioneer DEH-P680MP. have a set of Diamond Audio M5 components with a Directed Audio amp that i have to install sitting at the house. need to get a 2nd set of components for the rear and then a 4chan amp.

Re: Re: Post your car system specs

quote:

Originally posted by Marc Summers EDM doesn't sound clean with 12" subs...

You obviously dont have any idea what you are talking about. A 12" will be just as punchy as any 8" or 10" and its low end will go even deeper. Its all about sound imaging. If you tune a subwoofer to play only midbass notes (80hz - 200hz) you're music will start to sound like junk. At least in a car environment. Given that the sub is tuned correctly and installed in the correct box, even a 15" will have no problem blending in perfectly with the punchy midbass of the front component speakers.

'93 Civic with default speakers (two in the front, one on the left goes out from time to time) and original tape deck that eats tapes.

That's right. Fear it.

Re: Re: Re: Post your car system specs

quote:

Originally posted by zDmn You obviously dont have any idea what you are talking about. A 12" will be just as punchy as any 8" or 10" and its low end will go even deeper. Its all about sound imaging. If you tune a subwoofer to play only midbass notes (80hz - 200hz) you're music will start to sound like junk. At least in a car environment. Given that the sub is tuned correctly and installed in the correct box, even a 15" will have no problem blending in perfectly with the punchy midbass of the front component speakers.

All of you're technical mumbo jumbo still doesn't magically defy the laws of physics.

12" subwoofers are known for it's "Thunder". A large cone can't create the rapid movements like a smaller one can. This is why most hip hop listeners go for larger diameter woofers because the kicks can be farther apart. You put 12" woofers in a car that plays tracks that can be up to 150 BPM or maybe play some DnB which can be 160+, it's going to sound like garbage. I've seen it, I've heard it, it always end up sounding half-assed.

With EDM you should generally go 10" or 8".

All subwoofers are designed differently, rendering size useless to determine sound quality.

/thread

get a w7.

/thread

Whatever the bus driver has.

Kenwood Z919 CD/mp3 deck, Infiniti Basslink in the trunk, & stock speakers. nothing special, but it does the trick.

i cant believe no one has mentioned audiobahn! haha

quote:

Originally posted by idoru '93 Civic with default speakers (two in the front, one on the left goes out from time to time) and original tape deck that eats tapes. That's right. Fear it.

[]D [] []V[] []D

quote:

Originally posted by Frenchie []D [] []V[] []D

I still read that D V D. and think "hey girl, you wanna go watch a D V D at my place?"

um whatevers stock on an 89 grand marquis gs

I got one of these babies in my helicopter:



fully pumps the tunes out while I do the hearding

quote:

Originally posted by gehzumteufel get a 12w7. /thread

fixed

Re: Re: Re: Re: Post your car system specs

quote:

Originally posted by Marc Summers All of you're technical mumbo jumbo still doesn't magically defy the laws of physics. 12" subwoofers are known for it's "Thunder". A large cone can't create the rapid movements like a smaller one can. This is why most hip hop listeners go for larger diameter woofers because the kicks can be farther apart.

You couldnt be more false. In every class of subs, the motor for every size sub is the exact same whether is be an 8" 10" or 12" and so on. The only difference between the sizes is the diameter of the cone. Thats it. If you give a 12" in sub enough power its motor can push the cone just as fast and as tight as an 8" but the 12" will have much deeper low end. Most of the clubs around here have 15" to 18" subs in mutiples and the music there thumps.

but the truth remains that with 12" subs, the center of the bass is actually outside of your car.You must be italian...make me a sammich.

there are a few factors that determine the 'tightness' of a sub
- Quality of the sub
- Design of the sub enclosure
- Damping factor of the amp
- Crossover points (Low pass filter)
- Front Stage Splits
- The car itself

The quality of the sub is quite self explanatory, garbage in, garbage out.
You want a decent sub looking at simple specs such as the voice coil diameter, magnet weight, material used, motor structure etc...but when you get to the Thiele-Small (TS) specs (xmax, fs etc) that determines how good your sub is and what the sub is ideal for in what enclosure (eg ported, sealed, isobaric etc)

The design of the sub enclosure is the most important thing to maximise the potential of your sub. Looking at the TS specs determines the optimal enclosure size for your sub along with it being ported/sealed. The box being to small can cause the sub to have a lack of bass extension, a box too big can cause the sub to sound sloppy.
The ideal thing is to minimise group delay. Group delay is a factor that determines what is perceived for a system to sound sloppy or tight.

An amp with a high damping factor allows it to control the movement of the speaker.

A sub with the low pass filter set too high will in effect cause the imaging to detract pulling the soundstage back (if your subs are at the back), losing focus and the tightness of a system will be lost.

The front stage is the most crucial part of good quality system especially if you want a tight sound. The tightness of a system is not factored by the sub but the front speakers. The tight sound of a bass kick lies in the 75hz to 160hz area. Subs 'generally' are only good for up to 80hz.

The actual car will determine a system's tightness, looking at the cabin space, design such as hatchback, sedan and wagon.


With these factors taken into account the system in my car along with the crossover points of the sub of lpf at 54hz with a 12db slope and the front stage hpf of 73hz with a 12db slope and trust me, it sounds really tight (minimal group delay) and still quite reasonable with low end extension considering i'm using a sealed enclosure.

My system
Deck: Clarion 836MP (upgrade to a Pioneer P90 combo soon)
Splits: Rainbow Profi Kicks with custom passive crossovers
Splits Amp: ARC Audio XXK 2100 (possible upgrade to a Tru Technolgy Copper Series Tube Amp)
Sub: Rainbow Profi Vanadium 12
Sub Amp: ARC Audio XXK 2500
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme
Interconnects and Wires: Audison Connection

Belkin AM/FM Transmitter
Centon MP3 Player

Powered by: vBulletin
Copyright © 2000-2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.