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-- Taking apart and painting a technics?


Posted by Saint John on May-01-2009 14:06:

Taking apart and painting a technics?

I recently saw a video serious of this guy who tells you how to take apart your technics down to just the faceplate for cleaning or replacement :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDYgjwdQ55s

Anyways I was wondering if anyone has ever taking theirs fully apart, and if anyone has tried painting it, how well the results came out. The guy says you have to solder at just one point in taking two circuit boards apart, but I have never soldered a single thing in my whole life. Think I could do it?


Posted by MSZ on May-01-2009 15:39:

theres a tutorial floating on the net, someone usually posts it once a while here but its been a while. Basically a step by step walk through in pictures. Some slick paintjob and extra leds under the platter i think. maybe someone can dig it out for ya.


Posted by epdarks on May-01-2009 18:48:

Try this forum.


Posted by ZeJayMan on May-01-2009 20:00:

great video, well done to the guy that made that because he's put in loads of work and detail.


Posted by Saint John on May-01-2009 23:27:

quote:
Originally posted by ZeJayMan
great video, well done to the guy that made that because he's put in loads of work and detail.
Yeah he did do an awesome video. All im asking though is if anyone has actually done it and how easy it is for a beginner. I'm not trying to fuck up my turntable


Posted by DJ RANN on May-06-2009 22:35:

quote:
Originally posted by Saint John
Yeah he did do an awesome video. All im asking though is if anyone has actually done it and how easy it is for a beginner. I'm not trying to fuck up my turntable


I used to be a service engineer for technics and have taken apart too many 1210's to remember. It's really not difficult and with that video you really shouldn't be able to fuck it up. The main thing to remember is where everything goes - draw a map of where everything is if you need to, but TBH, the video can show you if you go wrong.

The tine arm inner wiring is the only real difficult part because the cables are so small and don't give you much length to work with - the solder points are very small as well. You shouldn't have to get in to that if you're just painting the casing though.

Basically, the first time you strip it down it should take no more than 45mins - 1hr. Good luck.


Posted by Tony Morello on May-06-2009 22:44:

i do have to say though, if you're not familiar with taking apart electronics and putting them back together (and having them work), starting with your turntable might not be the best idea


Posted by DJ RANN on May-06-2009 23:02:

quote:
Originally posted by Tony Morello
i do have to say though, if you're not familiar with taking apart electronics and putting them back together (and having them work), starting with your turntable might not be the best idea


Good point.


Posted by skot_e on May-07-2009 12:09:

I pulled mine down and have repainted them a metalic blue colour. I still need to put them back together but they are packed away due to interstate move late last year.
I would definately not recomend if you have not done some practice on other things. The tonearm wiring is soldered and is very fine wiring.


Posted by Tony Morello on May-07-2009 21:29:

yea, if there's soldering involved, i'd make sure you know what you're doing and can solder properly, otherwise you can risk messing things up good

then you'll be up the ol shit creek without a paddle


Posted by Dervish on May-07-2009 23:24:

quote:
Originally posted by DJ RANN
I used to be a service engineer for technics


Great to have such people on the board.

Anyway soldering is piece of piss.

Take off = Melt pull wire.
Put on = Melt put on wire.

Just remember which goes where, best to mark them off on the board. It's easier than extracting a screw.


Posted by skot_e on May-08-2009 08:14:

quote:
Originally posted by Dervish

Just remember which goes where,


Hence the photozzzz


Posted by Zak McKracken on May-09-2009 16:00:

PORN:




http://www.12x0.de/index.php?forum-showposts-214


Posted by DJ RANN on May-09-2009 19:09:

quote:
Originally posted by palm
PORN:




http://www.12x0.de/index.php?forum-showposts-214


True but If you read the full story that dude spent several hundred in parts (new transformer because the LED's around the platter fried the old one, laser etched technics perspex, layers of paint, etc,) not to mention several days worth of labour. It's fucking great but all in all that's about $2000 worth of upgrade to a single deck.


Posted by elFreak on May-09-2009 19:10:

flashy lights < what you play.

it looks cool for sure, but i would never do this, i fail to see the point.


Posted by Zak McKracken on May-10-2009 13:59:

if ur planning on having it in your livingroom its a pluss that it looks good. especialy if ur trying to avoid fights with chicks lol.


Posted by DJ RANN on May-17-2009 04:15:

quote:
Originally posted by ********
soldering isn't difficult just try not to overheat the solder, or apply heat directly to the wiring, as it can transfer to the other end of the wire, melt plastic etc... if it is "very fine" wires rather than the thicker copper than it could melt the wiring.

You can get soldering irons for 10$ on ebay .

Soldering is way less complex than oxyacetalyne or arc welding.

just try not to overheat anything, and it would help if you check your temperature enough.. to melt you solder (which should be the right mixture) but not your wiring, or board.

Also solder can be toxic so you may try to do so in a ventalated area.

Same goes with cleaning.. make sure you clean your rod/gun the right way and not to inhale any abrasives or powder


Well, oxyacetalyne welding and soldering don't have much in common apart from the fact they both use a heat source - Cheap soldering irons are not worth buying unless you're doing very basic work - fine work requires good tips to allow heat dispersion, and you really need a basic temperature control to get the solder to correct melt point fast and precisely to avoid sheath and component damage. The cheap ones also melt their own handles very often meaning you have to chuck them after a couple of uses.

If you're serious and know what you're doing, just Spend a little more $20-30 and get a decent one - it save time and money as well as allowing you to do a better job. Also buy decent solder with core flux (like a 4 or 6 core version with the correct diameter for your work).



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