yeah i make my own, but not as good as yours!

People tend to forget about interconnects and use what ever shit comes with their equipment

Its partly down to the manufacturers I feel as when you buy a BMW they dont fit the cheapest of the cheap tyres so why should Denon/etc include cheap cables?

You'll find more of a difference when you compare cheap cables on a turntable than on a line level device as with a lower voltage being transmitted from the styli it will degrade quicker (resistance) and also be more susceptable to interference. Also thicker, better cables will be more resistant to external interference (eg: if near power supplies or other voltage cables).

R.

i chose to go the non-soldering route and used the canare crimp on rca's. http://www.markertek.com/SearchProd...off=1&sort=prod


also, where did you get those sleeves to put over the bottom of the connector?

these cables are very resistant to outside interference. they have a double copper braided shield. peel off the outer shell, you hit the first braided copper sleeve. un-braided it, and you'll find a second braided sleeve.

when i get better @ soldering, i will go for a cardas tonearm cable upgrade for the m5g's, and change the interconnects. technics says the interconnect on the m5g, is a hi-fi cable. it's thicker, than the interconnect on the standard 1200. who knows. i'll report when i get around to it.

merlin, i soldered the center wire to make sure i always had contact. initially i was able to assemble the cable, and use it w/out soldering the center wire. i thought about going the crimp route, until i saw how much the all the extra tools/supplies were gonna cost. plus, i'm also assembling 1/4", and xlr cables... can't crimp those, so i decided not to spend the extra money on the crimp kit. atleast i get more practice soldering.

soldering rca cables, is actually pretty easy. it's pretty hard to mess it up, and render the cable useless. -you have to want to do it purpose to make that happen.

i purchased the heat shrink from michael percy audio.
http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf

the heat shrink is at the bottom of page 2. i bought clear, and black polyolefin @ 2.50 for a 4" length of 1/2" tubing.

i also bought the TRT Wonder solder 21g from him also to make the 25.00 minimum order.

note: the F10 RCA plug DOES come w/a strain relief spring. but the cable is too thick to pass through the spring. you will have to assemble and terminate w/out the spring.

Canare


Nice job.

nice job there!

i've got custom mogami/neutrik cabling myself. works great!

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|||CHRISTOPHER THOMAS|||

those are bad ass! they kinda look like monster cables but twice as fat. nice job mate

quote:

Originally posted by sr126 these cables are very resistant to outside interference. they have a double copper braided shield. peel off the outer shell, you hit the first braided copper sleeve. un-braided it, and you'll find a second braided sleeve. when i get better @ soldering, i will go for a cardas tonearm cable upgrade for the m5g's, and change the interconnects. technics says the interconnect on the m5g, is a hi-fi cable. it's thicker, than the interconnect on the standard 1200. who knows. i'll report when i get around to it. merlin, i soldered the center wire to make sure i always had contact. initially i was able to assemble the cable, and use it w/out soldering the center wire. i thought about going the crimp route, until i saw how much the all the extra tools/supplies were gonna cost. plus, i'm also assembling 1/4", and xlr cables... can't crimp those, so i decided not to spend the extra money on the crimp kit. atleast i get more practice soldering. soldering rca cables, is actually pretty easy. it's pretty hard to mess it up, and render the cable useless. -you have to want to do it purpose to make that happen. i purchased the heat shrink from michael percy audio. http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf the heat shrink is at the bottom of page 2. i bought clear, and black polyolefin @ 2.50 for a 4" length of 1/2" tubing. i also bought the TRT Wonder solder 21g from him also to make the 25.00 minimum order. note: the F10 RCA plug DOES come w/a strain relief spring. but the cable is too thick to pass through the spring. you will have to assemble and terminate w/out the spring.

Thanks.

I would have went solder, but i bought a crimper to crimp cable tv ends and make patch cables, so i just decided to buy the extra die to crimp the canare ends. Great cables by the way as I have the same ones.

what you did makes perfect sense to me now. that's the main reason i went w/canare in the first place. the tools they have available. the pricing for the strippers *snicker* was a little hard to swallow at first, but they are definately worth it.

ivan, tegu, and jdat thank you much, i'm glad you guys like the cables.

ivan, if ever need rca interconnects, look at acoustic research, or just about anything except monster. especially if you move your stuff around, and disconnect and reconnect things a regular basis. the monster cables will ruin your jacks. if you hook it up once, and leave it alone forever, that's ok... if not, beware. you have been warned.


here's how they look hooked up to the mixer. and a good look at my horrible heatshrinking skills... hey, i'm learning...
but now there's no room back there...

on the right in the second pic are the XLR cables i made.

yea the canare tools are expensive. i opted for the paladin crimp tool but i put down for the canare stripper.

paladin tool: http://store.yahoo.com/technicalcon...c/80secrfr.html

the key to monster ones it to twist them off don't go for the full pull on and off. I get monster and audio quest at dealer cost so i tend to stick with that.

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