(Master Cueing is the ability to hear the master output in your headphone cue)

I wanted to have the Master Cueing feature on my mixer, but didn't feel like buying a new one. The Behringer VMX200 is a great value mixer, but this is one of the nicer features that aren't included. I decided to open up my mixer and see what could be done about this problem. After a short time I found a way to add it.

In order for this to work, you will have to give up one of your regular cueing modes. By this I mean the switch in the middle of the mixer that lets you select between Stereo and Split cueing. I only ever used Stereo cueing, so sacrificing the Split cueing was not a problem.

A brief overview on the pros and cons of this mod:

Pros:
+ Master Cueing feature
+ Very low cost

Cons:
- You will lose one of your normal cueing modes
- If your mixer is still under warranty, it probably won't be afterwards


Before you go ahead with this mod, I would like to point out that this is meant for people with at least some experience in electronics and soldering. It's actually a very quick and easy mod to do with the help of this guide. However, I am not responsible for any damaged equipment, voiding of warranty, personal injury, unplanned pregnancy, loss of functionality, or any other undesired side effects from doing this modification.

Now, onto the guide:


Materials you will need:
-screwdriver(s)
-exacto-knife or equivalent sharp blade
-wire (22AWG solid recommended)
-wire strippers (the exacto-knife could also be used to strip the insulation off the ends of the wire)
-soldering iron
-solder (optional - you can probably get by with just the amount of solder already on the board)
-solder wick (optional - you'll only need this if you make mistakes on the soldering and need to remove excess solder from the board)
-multimeter (optional - only used to check if your soldering worked before actually using the mixer again)

Step 1: Unplug all the audio and power cables from your mixer. Your VMX200 should look like this:


Step 2: Remove all of the knobs and faders. Just pull on them and they will come off. The mixer should now look like this:


Step 3: Take your screwdriver and remove all of the screws on the top panel. The panel should come off easily. This is what you'll see inside:


Step 4: Go to the back panel of the mixer and remove all of the screws here too. Notice the "TAPE" outputs. This is the signal we will be able to hear in the headphone cue at the end of this mod.


Step 5: Remove the screws holding the three transistors to the case. These are a bit awkward to get at, but not too hard. They are attached to the bottom of the case because they get hot while the mixer is on, and the case will distribute this heat. It was harder geting a picture of them than actually removing the screws. You can see them here:


Step 6: Take notice of this switch (the Stereo / Split switch). We will be modifying the points that this switch connects to on the bottom of the board.


Step 7: Flip the board over and locate the bottom of the above mentioned switch.
The bottom of the board:


Closeup of the area that you'll be working on:


The six larger solder blobs are the points that the switch is connected to.

Step 8: Cut the traces that connect the switch to the 'Split Cue' signals. There are two traces for a left and right stereo sound. This is what the board looks like once these two traces are cut:


A multimeter would be helpful here to check these traces were cut successfuly. If you don't have one, don't worry, it's not neccessary to check as long as you are confident you cut the signal properly.

Step 9: Locate the row of 14 pins on the top of the board. This is where the TAPE signals are located. We will be bringing these signals over to the switch, where the Split Cue signals used to be connected to. Here's a picture of these pins:


Make sure you get the right row of pins. There is another set of these pins nearby that we don't want to get confused with. It should be fairly easy to find the right set of pins, just compare its location to the text on the board or other parts nearby.

Step 10: Solder two wires onto these pins. Counting from the right side, it will be pin numbers 3 and 4. By coincidence, these two pins are the ones that you can see traces going to on the board. Here's a picture with the two wires connected:


As you can see in the picture, you'll need to wrap the other ends of the wires around to the bottom side of the board. We will be soldering these wire ends directly to the switch's pins. Here's how it should look when done:


Make sure the solder doesn't bridge the two wires together, or connect to any of the other points nearby. The switch is the 6 larger blobs, and the 4 smaller blobs on the corners are ground.

Once this is done, you can check your soldering job with a multimeter if you have one.

Now start putting everything back together. It's important to put the screws back on those 3 transistors so your mixer doesn't overheat. A good way to put everything back together is to read this guide in reverse order. It will bring you back to the start. Once it's all closed up and you have your knobs and sliders back on, you'll be ready to try it out!

Setting the switch to "Stereo" will act just as it used to. Setting the switch to "Split" will now let you hear what the master output is on your headphones. No need to remove your headphones to hear the main speakers.


I will answer any questions you may have about this mod. If you are going to try it, let me know how it works for you.