Alright, I have a general audio equipment question, I guess this forum is closest in topic... whatever.

I got some nice bookshelf speakers and am looking for a nice sub to go with them (xmass is coming up ) and I am unclear on the difference between front firing subs and down firing. Obviously I realize it is describing the woofer orientation but how does this change the sound/price/whatever. I notice that a lot of sub companies make both versions. So what is the difference between the two?

On a related track, do people have some favorite powered subs? I am looking for something around $200 and don't want something to boomy that is just supposed to sound like bombs exploding in movies. I listen to lots of trance (obviously) but also lots of classical music. I want a sub that has good definition and am willing to sacrifice volume and even frequency response (I just want to get the lower portion of the spectrum that my little 6" woofers are not getting me).

Thanks in advance.

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Major Johnson - February Progressive Mix

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Hi auujay,

There's not alot of difference between down and front firing subs. It doesnt really have a large effect on quality because bass is supposed to be non-directional. Some people like the down firing subs because they can be placed in more convenient locations (you dont have to worry if the front is facing a wall).

In the $200 price range you can't really find many quality subs. You will most likely get bass that is boomy, not 'quick' enough, will linger on bass notes, and generally not sound too musical. If you arn't concerned much with sound quality it would be OK, but it sounds like you want something that sounds good.

If you can afford $350, you can get a nice subwoofer kit. It requires you to assemble it, but it comes with instructions and shouldnt be too hard. Here's the highly regarded 10" Titanic Sub at PARTS EXPRESS.

I personally own the Adire Rava sub, and I must say it is a big improvement over my old $300 CND Merak.

if your computer is in the same room as where youre gonna be listening, and you have 5.1 output on your soundcard, go for the Altec Lansing ADA995 (THX Certified)

amazing quality sound, relatively cheap price

a cool way to make a cheap sub sound tight, punchy and accurate is to use something to completely block the port. like a 3/4 inch piece of m.d.f. cut so it's pressure fit inside the port tube. glue it in then cut a piece of formica and glue it on the outside of the port hole is it hides the port. you should be able to get a scrap piece for free or a couple of bucks from a kitchen design place. it doesn't matter what color, just hit it with a few thin coats of whatever color paint you sub box is so it blends in. if you can completely remove the tube then do so, it will sound better. now you've seal the enclosure. here's the important part of this mod. go to a fabric store and get a product called "polyfill" it's dirt cheap. it's what you use to stuff pillows and things. for the average 6"-8" sub just use about 3/4 to a whole regular size bag. stuff the sub box with it. you want to pretty much fill the entire enclosure but very loosely. pull apart and fluff up the polyfill before you put it in the box. this polyfill breaks up the negative standing waives inside the enclosure allowing the sub to act as though it's in a larger enclosure and will increase it's efficiency. sealing the enclosure makes the bass tighter, "faster" and more accurate. much better suited to studio use. the enclosure needs to be filled with polyfill because the sub and the enclosure are at least a little bit "tuned" for a port. cheap sub enclosures are usually not tuned very well if at all. a port on the sub makes the actual speaker perform as though the enclosure was slightly larger and it allows for slightly deeper bass but at the sacrifice of sound quality. the bass is lower but it's not as punchy and it becomes muddy. that is unless the enclosure is a very high end enclosure and the speakers and enclosure were produced for audiophiles or studio use. you'll probably need to experiment with how much polyfill to use. just use your ears and add a little or take a little away until you get the best sound. just make sure you completely seal up the enclosure each time you add or remove polyfill so you'll know exactly what it will sound like. if the enclosure is not completely sealed then it will "leak". remember this is only for cheaper subs or subs you don't mind screwing up. this really is an easy mod though. cheers

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A sealed enclosure doesnt always mean better bass. Actually, mid-high end subs are usually ported. And generally speaking, the ports are there for a reason. If the company felt that they could make a better sounding product by filling it and sealing, believe me they would.

For an example of great ported subs, check out Hsu and SVS subwoofers.

edit: I didnt see the line "that is unless the enclosure is a very high end enclosure and the speakers and enclosure were produced for audiophiles or studio use." But high end is very subjective. krell master reference subs are 15,000+ so I wouldnt consider a $500 sub high end. And you can find some amazing subs for around 500.

Thanks for the replys everyone, especially DJ Chrono. That kit looks really sweet, I may have to delay my purchase so I can afford it. One question though, do you know if the kit has a variable crossover? I read through the info on the partsexpress site and I did not see them explicitly mention it. It is no big deal, when I come closer to actually buying it I may look harder (or just call the place).

Again, thanks everyone for the tips.

___________________
"You can only drink 30 or 40 glasses of beer a day, no matter how rich you are." - Colonel Adolphus Busch

Major Johnson - February Progressive Mix

Download Other Mixes

quote:

Originally posted by DJ Chrono A sealed enclosure doesnt always mean better bass. Actually, mid-high end subs are usually ported. And generally speaking, the ports are there for a reason. If the company felt that they could make a better sounding product by filling it and sealing, believe me they would. For an example of great ported subs, check out Hsu and SVS subwoofers. edit: I didnt see the line "that is unless the enclosure is a very high end enclosure and the speakers and enclosure were produced for audiophiles or studio use." But high end is very subjective. krell master reference subs are 15,000+ so I wouldnt consider a $500 sub high end. And you can find some amazing subs for around 500.

my tip was for cheap subs. and i'm talking the cheap kind that come with a a $200-$300 home system. ports are used to tune a sub so that it kicks out it's max spl at a specific freq. it also allows for slightly deeper bass but at the cost of a bit of tightness.

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quote:

Originally posted by auujay One question though, do you know if the kit has a variable crossover?

Yes it does.

"The amplifier assembly, which normally retails for $199, is equally butch. It weighs 12 pounds and looks like the same amp/crossover/control center you've seen on any number of other subwoofers -- it has the extruded heat sinks that go with its 250W Class-AB amplifier, a variable crossover (40-160Hz), output control, two phase shift controls, a built-in rumble filter, line-level and speaker-level inputs, a 6dB high-pass filter at 125Hz for use with satellite speakers, a 6dB bass boast at 30Hz (said to extend its low-end response), and an auto on/off option/"

Check THIS out for the full review.