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DJ-Kuza
Supreme tranceaddict
Registered: Mar 2002
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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If you don't buy them, I will. That's a damn good price.
A few things to check.
1. The proper dots on the side of the platter must stop at quarts lock. If you have it in the middle of the slid bar and none of the dots are still. Then it's got a pitch problem. Also, make sure there is no other 0 pitch. So it should ONLY stop when on the middle not anywhere else.
2. The start stop speed is important because if it's slow ther eis a problem with the electronic magnet. If you stop the platter while spinning, you want those things to pick up fast to bring in your beat.
GL, but them man.
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Apr-24-2002 19:59
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DJTJ
linuXaddict

Registered: Jan 2001
Location: Bournemouth, UK when I'm at home, Cardiff, UK when I'm at uni
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Yeah, 10 year old Technics will be fine, they are built to last.
The thing about platter start-up/stop speed - You are right to some extent, about startup not really being important. Personally, I like to stop the deck when I take off the record. I don't know why, it's just what I do. I then start it up again after I put the new one on. Spin-up time doesn't make any difference though, it's minimal on pretty much any deck for the purposes I use it for.
However, stop speed is slightly more important - there is a widely used trick that you can do, that involves mixing in track 2, then 1 beat before you want the mix to end, kill the volume of track 2, hit the stop button on track 1, and slam the volume back up on track 2. If timed well, this can sound really good, but it is dependent on a good stop time. It would be imposible to do on belt-drive decks and some lower torque direct drive decks. It works fine on Techs though, obviously!
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Apr-24-2002 20:00
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Dj Thy
Deckhead

Registered: May 2001
Location: Belgium, Earth
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The braking yes, the acceleration no (well yes it is repairable, but not merely by a twist of a knob). If the platter accelerates slowly, it's the first indication something is wrong with the motor.
What else you need to check?
Especially the pitch. Start from the lowest possible pitch and slowly work your way up to the highest pitch. While doing that pay close attention at the strobe dots. The big dots should have a steady progression. At first they'll seem to move backwards (as you are on negative pitch). They should STEADILY slow down as you increase pitch. When you reach 0% th big dots must "stand still". And when you enter positive pitch, they should begin to move forward, again a steady increase while you move the slider.
So especially make sure the spead decrease/increase of the big dots is steady, and also check they ONLY stand still at 0%, and nowhere else. If they stand still somewhere else than the quartz lock, you'll have the famous double 0 problem (can be fixed, but requires you to open the deck from below).
Also check the tonearm. It should move as freely as possible, but it shouldn't be too loose at the articulations (with too loose I mean the arm shouldn't wiggle).
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Apr-24-2002 20:33
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