You can change the pitch easily by opening up the motor underneath the table n changing a nob, increasing the power going into the motor. If you do this, just make sure to use a current detector or whatever they're called so you can reset it to its original state if needs be

There's a pot (variable resistor) on the pitch board that controls it. Because the whole thing seems to be based on some crude crystal locked oscillator, all you have to do is either change the position of the pot marked "pitch" (I've read you can get up to +/-15% from that), or replace it with a higher value one.

You'd use an ohm meter (one of a multimeter's modes) to read its original value.

I just can't understand why even 30 years ago they were able to use LEDs all over the thing, except in the aluminium pop-up, where they used a 20V filament bulb.

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I'm running! I'm running! I'm running! ... I'm naked!

bragi is any of it online??

if so could you post some links?

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Upfront Records

Project Blu

From a repair guide

Technics 1210 Mk2 ,1979 (much the same as 1200 )

Wrong dedented speed,no stylus light and sticky / rubbing ? tonearm .

On test point 27 the f on a counter should be 262.08 KHz (for 33 1/3 rpm ,/N=162 ;for 45 /N = 120 ) so 262080 = 162 X 33 1/3 X 182 (pips on platten) X16 /60 seconds. Was about 261.60 KHz. Green LED on dedent lights on speed lock and strobe freezes large pips on platten periphery.

Stylus lamp was blown 20V small filament lamp ,filament not ideal because of percusive nature of the pop-up action plus unavailable 20V. Replaced with 3 slab type LEDs soldered in parallel and ground down edges and front faces to feed into the aluminium slot. Bed in with mastic or "blue tack" to position and glue in with hot-melt.

Run from the supply with a 200 ohm,2W R in series.

Checked pivot adjusters, lock nuts had "loctite", so heated with soldering iron to free up. Problem was probably crossed turns of the hair spring torsional spring for the anti-skate mechanism. To remove tonearm (first remove headshell and cartridge) and set anti-skate to zero. Undo signal lead clamp and all screws from the underside of the mount (including under the terminal board) except one nearest the vertical pin that is touched by the anti skate spring. Tie cotton to the fine signal leads before extracting.

Another 1210 this time with guillotined lead to the stylus illuminator , no green LED on dedent position of pitch slider pot.

The silly ring of soft plastic around the brass barrel had broken allowing the slide to go far enough to cut the wire to the lamp.

Undo the brass pin that actuates the micro switch and between the main barrel and the side of the mico fix a 1 inch disk of rubber like an old tap washer. Cut a hole in the centre to be able to screw the actuator pin back again. The rubber disk fouls the bottom rubber of the casing but as thin at this point it flexes slightly. This bodge of an end stop should do a bettter job than the original.

Also missing tonearm lifter lever. Found a length of brass hex spacer threaded 3mm one end and tapped 3 mm at the other.

Broke up an old standard size paddle toggle switch for the plastic paddle. Heating with low setting hot air gun melted an angle into the pivot area and tapped a 3mm thread onto the switch end of the paddle. Screwed into spacer and screwed other end of spacer into the horizontal rod of the tonearm lifting mechenism. LED problem due to o/c switch in detent f lock position. Nothing done to rectify as owner content with knowledge only cosmetic,this switch is built into the slider pot housing.

and

The 1210 FAQ

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I'm running! I'm running! I'm running! ... I'm naked!