quote:

Originally posted by Mr.Mystery I'd be really interest in knowing how a software generates "warmth".

I gather it's just a combination of appropriate EQ and compression - the PSP Vintage Warmer VST is basically just a glorified multiband compressor designed to compress and boost frequencies they've determined give warmth (mostly in the lower frequencies).

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Stu Cox |

quote:

Originally posted by Stu Cox I gather it's just a combination of appropriate EQ and compression - the PSP Vintage Warmer VST is basically just a glorified multiband compressor designed to compress and boost frequencies they've determined give warmth (mostly in the lower frequencies).

I would imagine that is usually done before the release is even pressed to vinyl.

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quote:

Originally posted by Mr.Mystery I would imagine that is usually done before the release is even pressed to vinyl.

Sometimes, although the warmth is usually considered to be a character of the vinyl pressing itself - it's more likely to be added to a track aimed for digital release to give it more of a vinyl character, I know a lot of producers who always use that PSP plugin on every track to try and make them sound less "digital"... it sort of goes against simple logic to try and add warmth to a recording from vinyl as it should already have it and you don't really want to overdo it, but maybe the Izotope is simply tailored to try and maintain that warmth.

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Stu Cox |

would something like this work well for recording vinyl into a .mp3/.wav format?

http://www.agiprodj.com/numark-ttus...udio-interface/

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Originally posted by jayxthekoolest would something like this work well for recording vinyl into a .mp3/.wav format? http://www.agiprodj.com/numark-ttus...udio-interface/

Along similar lines...I just picked this up and it has been very impressive in its conversion quality imo...works easily with Audacity (free)

http://reviews.cnet.com/turntables/...7-32417457.html

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I use Audacity to record with type it into google to download it, it's fre & easy to use & enables you to decide upon the quality & format of your recordings. Having good turntables & a good mixer will also effect the sound quality as will the needles.

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Originally posted by jayxthekoolest would something like this work well for recording vinyl into a .mp3/.wav format? http://www.agiprodj.com/numark-ttus...udio-interface/

if you want low quality recordings it will work fine.

you can not record a high bitrate sample.

it was 110$ at costco this weekend, i checked it out and did not deem it worthwhile to buy.

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quote:

Originally posted by elFreak if you want low quality recordings it will work fine. you can not record a high bitrate sample. it was 110$ at costco this weekend, i checked it out and did not deem it worthwhile to buy.

Thanks for the advice. It looks like I'll be getting a Technics 1210 anyways. I'll just figure out how to use that.

quote:

Originally posted by jayxthekoolest Thanks for the advice. It looks like I'll be getting a Technics 1210 anyways. I'll just figure out how to use that.

TBH, the best way to go about this is to just rip them one by one on a good direct drive turntable with the quartz lock located to 0 on the pitch. Wow and flutter is not a concern as the amount of deviation from zero is so small that the drift in time is negligible over a period of even 10 mins.

The things to consider:

1, Good turntable - 1210 is perfectly suitable, as it holds pitch extremely well and has low internal rumble (which can be transferred on to the recording)

2, Good needles - Ortofons (especially concords), Stantons (especially trackmasters), Shures. Doesn't matter too much which, as this is personal preference but make sure they are more aimed at sound quality than tracking/scratching. I find the frequency response on the Ortofon Nightclub E to be the widest with good bass representation and clear crisp highs.

3, That Turntable is on an exactly level surface, the tonarm weight is correctly balanced and the stylus is in the perfect position. These are really important if you are trying to get the most from your vinyl.

4, That you use a decent phono preamp (mixer) and soundcard to get the signal in to your computer.

The reasons for this list are that the quality of the rip will only be as good as the weakest link(s) in this chain.

quote:

Originally posted by DJ RANN TBH, the best way to go about this is to just rip them one by one on a good direct drive turntable with the quartz lock located to 0 on the pitch. Wow and flutter is not a concern as the amount of deviation from zero is so small that the drift in time is negligible over a period of even 10 mins. The things to consider: 1, Good turntable - 1210 is perfectly suitable, as it holds pitch extremely well and has low internal rumble (which can be transferred on to the recording) 2, Good needles - Ortofons (especially concords), Stantons (especially trackmasters), Shures. Doesn't matter too much which, as this is personal preference but make sure they are more aimed at sound quality than tracking/scratching. I find the frequency response on the Ortofon Nightclub E to be the widest with good bass representation and clear crisp highs. 3, That Turntable is on an exactly level surface, the tonarm weight is correctly balanced and the stylus is in the perfect position. These are really important if you are trying to get the most from your vinyl. 4, That you use a decent phono preamp (mixer) and soundcard to get the signal in to your computer. The reasons for this list are that the quality of the rip will only be as good as the weakest link(s) in this chain.

Thank you, I'll definitely follow this advice.