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Originally posted by Osmodiar .. ok so not hearing a lot of support for re-coning.. I sort of feel the same, would prefer a new driver. but my girlfriend is offering to pay because it was her drunken friend that knocked it over and she doesn't want to ask her for it, so i want to do it as cheaply as possible without sacrificing the quality of the repair. I will take the advice of contacting mackie about it directly before accepting the repair quote i think, might be worth a shot. I wouldn't mind doing the labour myself to save the ~$50 or so, not sure how to actually get it apart and replace the driver though the front of it is all flush, no screws. Anyone know if the driver can be removed by taking off the back panel (where there are some screws) or does the cabinet have to be re-glued or something?

tbh, reconing is simply not worth it on monitors that a few hundred dollars - it's just cheaper to replace the driver.

In london I have late 70's 15" Tannoy speakers that are incredible rare (because they no longer can make the coil and magnet) so I got them reconed but for speakers that cost $400 a pair it's simply not worth the man hours,

It's really easy on the mackies, just take all the screws off until the driver comes off, disconnect the jumper cables and pop in the new one.

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Originally posted by Mad for Brad what about phat beats. Sometimes my beats are really phat, wonder if the cones can accommodate such girth.

phat beats in classical compositions?

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Originally posted by Mad for Brad what about phat beats. Sometimes my beats are really phat, wonder if the cones can accommodate such girth.

then not only will your phat beats blow my speakers, they will blow my mind!

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Originally posted by 19503 phat beats in classical compositions?

I wasn't always a square.

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Originally posted by DJ RANN It's really easy on the mackies, just take all the screws off until the driver comes off, disconnect the jumper cables and pop in the new one.

Just wondering, do you know that for sure with the MR8's, ie from experience ? The supplier said it would be tricky to remove the driver and involve some soldering, whether they are just guessing though i don't know.

The only visible screws are on the back.. i guess i'll take the back off and see what it looks like from there.

I don't have a soldering iron.. so if it uses plugs that would be easy. but i can handle tricky as long as it doesn't involve specialised tools to remove screws from inaccessible places.

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