Ok basically trying to figure out the problem here.

I am using SSL with the old control vinyls with pitch drift compensation on.

I am getting strange Pitch variation when pitching near 0 on my MK2s. Does anyone have any idea if it's a common thing for MK2's? Is there anyway I can replace the pitch with an M3D pitch control or something?

quote:

Originally posted by sym Is there anyway I can replace the pitch with an M3D pitch control or something?

Pretty easily actually....

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quote:

Originally posted by Dirk W. Pretty easily actually....

Any recomendations for it? Can I just order the part and do it myself, or should I bring it in somewhere and have them order it?

I had the same problem with my old 1200mk2. Not with SSL , but with the turntable when playing vinyl. When I would sometimes ride the pitch between the -1 thru +1, the Turntable pitch seemed unstable.

I swapped out the old mk2 pitch control and replaced it with an m3d pitch control. After that, everything was perfect. you will need to solder the replacement m3d pitch control in.

The replacement m3d ptich contol was like 35$ from someplace. I dont remember where I ordered it from.

Maybe removing the ball-bearing quartz lock thingy from the mk2 pitch control can make pitching records around the -1 to +1 more stable. I've done it to a mk2 turntable about 10 yrs ago, but I dont remember if the pitch was still unstable after removing the ball-bearing.

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quote:

Originally posted by sym Any recomendations for it? Can I just order the part and do it myself, or should I bring it in somewhere and have them order it?

I am pretty sure you can just order and do it yourself. I have replaced several things inside my techs and they are not that complicated. Order the piece here or here. I am sure all you have to do is change it out.

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quote:

Originally posted by SUNWmsf I had the same problem with my old 1200mk2. Not with SSL , but with the turntable when playing vinyl. When I would sometimes ride the pitch between the -1 thru +1, the Turntable pitch seemed unstable. I swapped out the old mk2 pitch control and replaced it with an m3d pitch control. After that, everything was perfect. you will need to solder the replacement m3d pitch control in. The replacement m3d ptich contol was like 35$ from someplace. I dont remember where I ordered it from. Maybe removing the ball-bearing quartz lock thingy from the mk2 pitch control can make pitching records around the -1 to +1 more stable. I've done it to a mk2 turntable about 10 yrs ago, but I dont remember if the pitch was still unstable after removing the ball-bearing.

This is my exact problem, between +1 and -1 It seems to behave strangely

http://www.mio.co.za/article.php?cat=dj&id=238

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- What you do is open up the TT, by removing the 1,000,000 screws from beneath.
- Then unplug the wire that connects the mk2 pitch control to the TT.
- Then unscrew the mk2 pitch control PCB board from the TT.
- Then de-solder the mk2 pitch control from the PCB board that it is attached to. [ I used a 25 watt solder IRON. I tried 15 watt, but it didnt get hot enough. It took some time to de-solder even with 25-watt solder iron. ]
- Then re-solder the replacement m3d pitch control to the PCB board. [It might be a good idea to have a voltmeter around to test your solder job. You want to make sure the connections are good cuz you dont want to have to re-open the TT again. ]
- Then screw the PCB board to the TT and re-connect the wire.
- Close up shop.

All in all, it is a pretty easy job. You dont really have to know much about electronics to do the swap. It should take you about 45 mins to do. I think they have instructions on the web someplace... maybe like http://www.1200s.com or something like that.

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This is pretty common on mk2's and you don't have to go into so much hassle as actually replacing the pitch-slider components. You'll have to calibrate it using the pots vr301 (under the platter) and vr302 (under the pitch slider, so you'll have to open it from beneath).
To contrary belief the pot underneath the platter will not adjust your pitchrange, it will set your true zero-point. The pot underneath the pitch-slider will adjust your range.
Don't know exactly which kind of decks you have, but on mk2's what you have to do is adjust vr301 until the true zero-point overlaps the zero-point indicated by the slider (when the green led lights up). Sometimes you'll need to adjust vr302 also to get a perfect calibration, and it's best if you use a multi-meter for it.
I can put up a small step-by-step guide if anyone is interested. Because a lot of the guides on the internet are wrong (most of them just copy/past eachother ).

- farris

quote:

Originally posted by farris This is pretty common on mk2's and you don't have to go into so much hassle as actually replacing the pitch-slider components. You'll have to calibrate it using the pots vr301 (under the platter) and vr302 (under the pitch slider, so you'll have to open it from beneath). To contrary belief the pot underneath the platter will not adjust your pitchrange, it will set your true zero-point. The pot underneath the pitch-slider will adjust your range. Don't know exactly which kind of decks you have, but on mk2's what you have to do is adjust vr301 until the true zero-point overlaps the zero-point indicated by the slider (when the green led lights up). Sometimes you'll need to adjust vr302 also to get a perfect calibration, and it's best if you use a multi-meter for it. I can put up a small step-by-step guide if anyone is interested. Because a lot of the guides on the internet are wrong (most of them just copy/past eachother ). - farris

That would be pretty helpful, is the guide posted above correct? Also, is there anyway to remove the click in at zero pitch while i'm in there?

After reading that guide and reading a forum post of others who have used that guide succesfully, I decided to give it a go on one of my decks.

I adjust the blue knob labelled pitch, and was able to get it so the big circle was close to still at 0%, but now when I pitch it up toward +8% it sounds more like +16%, anyone have any ideas?

Hmm well I put it back toward it's default setting and it doesn't seem to be doing quite what it was doing, but it I can't seem to get it so that when the LED is on, it'a at 0%, according my Serato Scratch, when the LED is on it is around -2.0%