It doesn't work like that. Use the recommended weight for your carts, set the height so that it is even or slightly angled down towards the record (more for scratch DJs to prevent skipping), and set the anti-skate so that the tonearm doesn't pull in towards the spindle or out towards the tonearm rest. You could buy two new 1200s and two new identical carts and have to use different settings because they're all a little bit different.

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Ah in that case I have Stanton 500 AL II carts.... what do people use for them?

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Google is your friend:

http://www.stantondj.com/v2/cartrid...500v3_specs.php

Learn how to set your decks up properly for what works for *you*. Doesn't matter what "people" use - if they're not set for the way you handle the turntables, they're not going to perform as well as you'd like them to. Do you know how to set the counterbalance properly? If not, time to do a little research - there's enough online information to fill a small library.

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Follow what the carts recommend, and then adjust to what you think works.


Remember at 0 weight the tone-arm should balance level and the anti-skate should be set so that you can place the tone-arm any place and it wont move, it will just hover there perfectly still.

Then adjust the weight to what the cart recommends. I usually then add a half or a quarter to that. Depends on the needle though. I had the 500 AL II's for a while and it seemed to be less weight the better. The needles seem to grip fine on their own.

I use Whitelabels now and adding weight a bit seems to help there or really fast cueing.

I set height at 2.5 and turn the weight backwards and set it at the heaviest setting. Antiskate at zero. I scratch a lot though and use Serato so I don't gotta worry about ruining records...