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orTofønChiLd
Everything is illuminated

Registered: Feb 2008
Location: Miami
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Aug-06-2009 19:29
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tecnolover
Senior tranceaddict

Registered: Sep 2004
Location: somewhere in, USA
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The cost depends on many factors,, ie, the current room construction, location, materials used, quality of the doors/windows, room size etc etc. It can be quite expensive if you have someone build it for you. Also, windows and doors are probably the most costly single components in the room. A high quality, high isolation door can even cost thousands of $$. This is because they must be designed very carefully with good seals. Doors and windows are most notorious areas of weakness in any sound isolation room and your whole rooms overall sound isolation rating will often hinge on how effective they are.
In my studio room i'm using a two door design to save on costs. You will see many examples on the net if you search. Two good solid wood doors for the entry. It's often referred to as a 'vestibule' style entrance. One door in the outer wall and one door in the inner wall. My room won't have windows to deal with thank heavens.
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Happy music making!
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Aug-07-2009 08:27
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studiobob
Senior tranceaddict
Registered: May 2009
Location:
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10k is plenty of cash to spend on a room to soundproof it.... way to much in fact... doubt i've spent that on my entire studio, which includes 3 different rooms.
if its a basement room then you dont need to worry about the floor, and maybe the lower levels of the room - depending of course what material the existing walls are made of...if its a stone basement, you should be ok. tis the ceiling you will need to concentrate on. would suggest a timber frame to build a false ceiling and corresponding timber walls to creat a room within a room. leave a gap of air of at least 6 inches between the top layer of plasterboard and the existing ceiling. fill this gap with the densest rockwool you can find. think RW5 is the right kind of stuff.
you going to want to disconnect any lights from the ceiling and use lamps from wall sockets unless you want to get creative with a tube to run the wires and a can of expanding foam to seal it all off... any single breach in the seal between the existing ceiling and your new room will lower the soundproofing capacity by around 25% so attention to detail when sealing it up is a key factor. mass is the other factor. mass stops sound, end of. so if you can safely attach 3/4 layers of plasterboard to the ceiling your creating then do it. and dont bother with the soundboard which is advertised. you can buy more ordinary 12.5mm plasterboard for less money to make up the difference.
you might want to think about aircon. you, in a room surrounded by f**kloads of rockwool - its gonna get HOT!
doors and windows are the weakpoints of any soundproof. the post above from tecnolover is bang on the money.
the problem with soundproofing, unless you know exactly what you doing, one little thing like a joist nailed to the wall your trying to isolate which than conducts the vibrations from your sub upstairs can ruin the whole thing and waste a lot of time and money!
so if your serious about doing this then suggest checking out the joh sayers studio design forum or email the guy (andy parry) who runs www.electro-acoustics.co.uk and have a word with the Pros! PS designed our control room and did an ace job!
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www.soundcloud.com/iainsanderson
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Aug-07-2009 12:54
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cryophonik
Boom shanka

Registered: Jan 2008
Location: Elk Grove, CA USA
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| quote: | Originally posted by TylerM
I'm looking to block out all the sound so people around the house don't get completely disgruntled 
my sub woofer is what causes family members the most pain |
Just curious, but how much consideration have you given to the following:
- mixing without the sub (or, only use it to check your mixes, e.g., when nobody else is home)
- mixing at, or just below, normal conversation level and only crank it up for short bursts to check your mix when nobody is home (this is good practice to minimize hearing fatigue)
- mixing with headphones when people are tying to sleep, etc. finish your mixes on your monitors during the day (yeah, I know it gets debated to death, but the general consensus is that mixing with a great pair of cans usually yields better results than mixing in a bad room and/or with crappy monitors)
I'd give those a try before going to the extremes of dropping $10K on soundproofing. You might actually find that your mixes improve drastically.
___________________
cryophonik.com | facebook | soundcloud
Sonar Platinum | Ableton Live 9 | Logic Pro X | Access Virus TI2 Keyboard | Kurzweil PC3X | Nord Lead 4R | NI Maschine
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Aug-07-2009 15:44
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Zombie14
Supreme tranceaddict

Registered: Jul 2003
Location: .
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| quote: | Originally posted by cryophonik
Just curious, but how much consideration have you given to the following:
- mixing without the sub (or, only use it to check your mixes, e.g., when nobody else is home)
- mixing at, or just below, normal conversation level and only crank it up for short bursts to check your mix when nobody is home (this is good practice to minimize hearing fatigue)
- mixing with headphones when people are tying to sleep, etc. finish your mixes on your monitors during the day (yeah, I know it gets debated to death, but the general consensus is that mixing with a great pair of cans usually yields better results than mixing in a bad room and/or with crappy monitors)
I'd give those a try before going to the extremes of dropping $10K on soundproofing. You might actually find that your mixes improve drastically. |
thanks for the advice, and it is advice that has been considered throughout the numerous years of audio production, but unfortunately it's not a possibility..
there are people home during the entire day, or they come in at random times.. Production is now a full time job, so this really does need to be done.. I do mixdowns in both headphones and with good monitors/sub. Cost is really not a problem unless it's going to be over 10-15 thousand.
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Aug-07-2009 19:09
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