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ya, you're pretty much right. it would be pretty shocking to most people how secular the majority of israelis are. i remember the best part about yum kippor (which is supposed to be a somber and self reflecting holiday) is that at midnight all the youth from all of haifa meet up at the town center and just party/chill since there are no cars out on the street. from my group of friends in israel i didnt know any that went to synagouge for services but we all kept the tradition by having big family dinners with lots of food yum.
the advandtage in israel is that the holiday is all around you (TV, newspaper, streets) so all you have to do is live there to feel it. here since jews are a small minority the traditions are kept more strongly so they dont disipate.
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If God is the answer, it must have been a very stupid question.
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