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CD-R reliability (pg. 2)
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| jahnlay |
I'm a mastering engineer and I only use Verbatims because the CD reproduction plant that I work with says that they give the least errors of all the brands, and I'm putting out about 20 to 30 masters a month.
Also, make sure you write your cd's at between 2 and 8 speed max, as 1 speed and higher than 8 speed creates too many errors on an audio disc. |
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| dorifuto |
I've been using Imation CD-R's for a while now and haven't had any errors when burning or skipping / degrading of quality over time. I can highly recommend these CD-R's!
I used to burn TDK gold's and would have a few errors every now and then. I also found that after the same discs were played excessively, audio tracks would begin to skip and click as the surface degraded.
I also came accross this webpage a while ago, which has a list of different CD-R's tested. http://www.cdmediaworld.com/hardwar...d_quality.shtml |
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| MikeyN |
| i actually use to use Imations all the time for everything, and like that site says, you cant claim the quality of CD-r's by how many errors youve had, but i just thought id mention, and this is odd, imations would always freeze my burning programs, as well as those generic, unlabeled discs, (the ones that look like two recording surfaces). |
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| djskret |
I have been using Maxell's for the longest time (Never had any problems).
I just make sure to burn at 24X max!!! |
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| punjabi |
| i swear by japanese fujifilm cd-r's. considered by many in the jamband music trading community to be the best discs around. i always get good life out of them. make sure you check the label and see MADE IN JAPAN, cause the Taiwanese discs are in the same packaging. |
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| richg101 |
can someone explain why a cd would work but then suddenly stop workin? i have never had any cd problems. i have used all sorts, cheap and expensive 'audio' cd-r's. can a cd-r juststopworking from age? or out of the blue? or stopworking even if it hasnt been scratched?
i always check my burns before putting them in my cd wallet so if they are fine on the first listen and dont get scratched wont they stay fine forever???? |
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| mzvirbulis |
i dont know but i think most things have a life span! although in your case you said i think it would be just fine!
also i believe it comes down to 3 things:
-good audio data
-good burner
-good cd discs
then u will really never be wrong. |
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| trancinchink |
damn.. i never knew burn speed made a difference..
i always burn all my cds at 48x but i've never had one stop working on me.. |
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| i got big pants |
thats interesting about the burning speed...so far ive burned tracks at the fastest speed possible (usually 48x) and i have yet to get cds with any errors in them.
do u guys suggest in the future to just drop it down to about 24x max??? |
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| SPAWNmaster |
| well i think it has to do mainly with your cdj's actually because ive heard of players from numark and other manufacturers that recommend no higher than 4x to avoid errors...whereas nowhere in the pio cdj manuals does it specify this...AND its never been complained about for pio's...so...yea... |
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| Zild |
| I've used all different types from cheap ones to expensive ones. They've all worked. |
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| rustyryan |
most non-generic brands will do just fine for recording audio.. with a few caveats...
CD-Rs are primarily made with 3 different kinds of organic dye inks:
From Wikipedia:
| quote: | There are three basic formulations of dye used in CD-Rs:
1. Cyanine dyes were the earliest ones developed, and their formulation is patented by Taiyo Yuden. Cyanine dyes are mostly green or light blue in color, and are chemically unstable. This made cyanine discs unsuitable for archival use; they can fade and become unreadable in a few years. Many manufacturers like Taiyo Yuden use proprietary chemical additives to make more stable cyanine discs ("metal stabilized Cyanine", "Super Cyanine").
2. Azo dye CD-Rs are dark blue in color, and their formulation is patented by Mitsubishi Chemicals. Unlike cyanine, azo dyes are chemically stable, and typically rated with a lifetime of decades.
3. Phthalocyanine dye CD-Rs are usually silver, gold or light green. The patents on phthalocyanine CD-Rs are held by Mitsui and Ciba Specialty Chemicals. These are also chemically stable, and often given a rated lifetime of hundreds of years.
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As you can see, the Cyanine dyes are to be avoided (discs that look green or light blue). Although most manufacturers don't list the dye they use, so this might be harder. AFAIK cyanine dye isn't used that much anymore except for in generic brand CD-Rs. You get what you pay for: 100 CD-Rs for $5 probably isn't worth it.
Cheap CD-Rs might have manufacturing defects that cause them to jitter or wobble in the drive, which can lead to little clicks, pops, or static in your audio.
Personally I trust Verbatim for archival/reliability purposes. Maxell for general use.
On the write speed issue: When you increase the speed, it isn't just increasing the speed that the CD is spinning in your drive as it's burnt. CD Burners have to change the technique they use for operating the laser diode as you increase the speed. So at certain speeds, the drive shifts the mode it uses for writing the disc. This is completely on a per-drive basis, so it requires a bit of experimenting to find the speed you prefer.
From personal experience, burning at 52x is a bad idea if you want to rely on the disc for anything. 8x burning is for the paranoid, and 24-32x is a happy medium for me.
Another issue: While buying CD-Rs, you might consider buying 72-minute CD-Rs versus 80minute. 80 minute CD-Rs are basically not compliant to the red book CD specification. They have a narrower track width, so your data is literally squeezed closer together and is probably more unreliable. Someone mentioned missing or drifting cue points on some CDJs; this might be part of the problem.
finally, a good site for cd-r info:
http://www.cdrfaq.org/
$.02
rj |
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