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digital cameras (pg. 3)
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View this Thread in Original format
| eRRaTiK |
| quote: | Originally posted by the unknown
honestly guys, i dont know what the hell youre talking about...everything you have said is pretty greek to me...all i really wanted to know about was a good camera for taking pictures of a stage (dj/lights/lazers) or the crowd, WHILE standing in that same crowd.
the problem with my camera is when i take a picture of the stage and the lights are on...it distorts the picture beyond recognition...here ill give an example
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The problem is not limited to the camera. You assume that it is. You can take decent night/club photos with virtually any camera however you need to be familiar with the technique(s) for getting good shots.
For instance, when you took the above shot were you standing and holding the camera steady? or was the camera propped up on a tripod and/or stable surface? Does your camera have a night mode? What was the iso setting?
You could go out and buy a super-hot camera but if you don't know how to take good shots with it then you're just wasting money. |
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| smuncky |
| quote: | Originally posted by MikeyN
12x optical zoom, oh, and it has a viewfinder. you can keep your nikon, which is just more of a "wow" camera, its a toy to me. something like the S3 IS or A630 is a more rugged and robust camera, with tons of versatility they each have a dial on them that allow you to operate them in all the same modes as an SLR.
and bumping up your iso? thats fantastic, but gives you much more noise. |
the only thing i dont like about that camera is how the lcd screen has to fold out. personally, tahts very inconvient for me. |
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| MikeyN |
| quote: | Originally posted by the unknown
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| quote: |
Exif Sub IFD
* Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 107/100 second = 1.07000 second
* Lens F-Number/F-Stop = 32/10 = F3.20
* Exposure Program = normal program (2)
* ISO Speed Ratings = 200
* Exif Version = 0220
* Original Date/Time = 0000:00:00 00:00:00
* Digitization Date/Time = 0000:00:00 00:00:00
* Components Configuration = 0x01,0x02,0x03,0x00 / YCbCr
* Compressed Bits per Pixel = 2/1 = 2.00
* Exposure Bias (EV) = 0/10 = 0.00
* Max Aperture Value (APEX) = 34/10 = 3.40
Max Aperture = F3.25
* Metering Mode = pattern / multi-segment (5)
* Light Source / White Balance = unknown (0)
* Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
* Focal Length = 63/10 mm = 6.30 mm |
your exposure time was 1 second, your iso was set to 200 Which is good, and your aperture was f/3.2. your problem was exposure time...
see the way a digital camera works is there is a part known as the shutter, which controls how long you allow light to make contact with the sensor. the sensor, is basically your "film" expose it to light, and whatever it "sees" gets transfered onto the film, only thing different, is this is an electrical component.
looking at the top line of those trusses, yes, you did stay quite still, but exposing that sensor to light for 1 full second is a very long time. and the subjects wont stand still for you either. im gonna edit this post, let me find an example for you. |
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| Cro_Addict |
| quote: | Originally posted by MikeyN
your exposure time was 1 second, your iso was set to 200 Which is good, and your aperture was f/3.2. your problem was exposure time... |
i don't know much about cameras....but i do know that for a 1 second expsure ur hands have to be reallllly in steady..like a tripod |
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| MikeyN |
| quote: | Originally posted by Cro_Addict
i don't know much about cameras....but i do know that for a 1 second expsure ur hands have to be reallllly in steady..like a tripod |
you got it ! gonna post an example in a sec. |
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| MikeyN |
| aaaaaaand my card reader isnt working, fantastic. |
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| the unknown |
| quote: | Originally posted by MikeyN
your exposure time was 1 second, your iso was set to 200 Which is good, and your aperture was f/3.2. your problem was exposure time...
see the way a digital camera works is there is a part known as the shutter, which controls how long you allow light to make contact with the sensor. the sensor, is basically your "film" expose it to light, and whatever it "sees" gets transfered onto the film, only thing different, is this is an electrical component.
looking at the top line of those trusses, yes, you did stay quite still, but exposing that sensor to light for 1 full second is a very long time. and the subjects wont stand still for you either. im gonna edit this post, let me find an example for you. |
where the hell did you get all that information???? is it encoded into the picture or something? |
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| djbruuen |
| taking a good picture in low light situations with a point and shoot camera is a very difficult task. A 1 second exposure will almost always be blurry, unless you're shooting a still subject on a tripod. Image Stabilization (IS) is one of the only efficient ways to combat this issue, (a few canon and other p&s have this feature) otherwise you basically need an SLR with a good lens to take great night time shots. |
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| eRRaTiK |
| quote: | Originally posted by the unknown
where the hell did you get all that information???? is it encoded into the picture or something? |
he now knows where you live and how much pr0n you have too... |
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| MikeyN |
| quote: | Originally posted by the unknown
where the hell did you get all that information???? is it encoded into the picture or something? |
;)
posting from my laptop, got my card reader working, hopefully now i can show you the example i was talking about. just gotta upload it |
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| MikeyN |
see how the lines on the floor and the structure are sharper than the moving objects (or the ones that cant stay still, i.e. the people) ?
this was a 4 second exposure, meaning i exposed the sensor to light for 4 seconds, i got a sharp shot because i was using a tripod, it could be better, i use a crappy tripod and the blast of wind from the subway moved it a little , which was just enough to blur it very slightly.
light travels in straight lines through air, if i move the camera im putting it in the way of different beams of light, so a "ghost" or second image is captured by the sensor over the original position if it is exposed long enough,this is how a blurry image is created.
i didnt need to get the info that it was a 1 second exposure to say that was your problem, i knew right away by looking at the shot, look at the guy closest to you in your shot, asian dude, i see at least 4 "ghosts" of him over the original position, what made it worse was because he was moving, if he stood still, it would still be blurry, but there wouldnt be those ghosts... it would look like that top most truss on the stage (very top of the image) where the line is blurry and out of focus |
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