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Headphone Recabling
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| legendary_waz |
Unfortunately the cable on my shure earphones has gone to and im out of warranty. My only option is to recable them, or throw them out.
If anyone has any recommendations on type of cable to use?
(im not looking for cheap cable)
also any online places that sell such cable would be great. |
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| DJ RANN |
| What shure headphones are they? I've done it a few times but need to know more.... |
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| legendary_waz |
| quote: | Originally posted by DJ RANN
What shure headphones are they? I've done it a few times but need to know more.... |
They are the Shure e2c's. I not too worried about the actual recabling since im quick good soldering, and all the electrical side of things, but just wanted need some guidance on type of cable to use to preserve the sound, and also where I can pick the stuff up. Thanks. |
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| DJ RANN |
| quote: | Originally posted by legendary_waz
They are the Shure e2c's. I not too worried about the actual recabling since im quick good soldering, and all the electrical side of things, but just wanted need some guidance on type of cable to use to preserve the sound, and also where I can pick the stuff up. Thanks. |
You can use any small diameter shielded pair (3 conductor - pair with earth) cable. Belden do one that's good, hard wearing and flexible but can't remember the model number.
Mogami also do a smaller diameter balanced cable too, which might be easier to get hold of.
Otherwise go to a big hardware store or a place that sells cabling for the electrical industry - they will have something that will will work.
Bear in mind you need to have a precision tip for your soldering iron - the soldering terminals in headphones are tiny and the each conductor is less than half a millimeter thick.
EDIT: Just remembered there's this great place I used to go to when I was in Toronto on queen street, called Active Surplus and they sell all this crazy electrical equipment and components (I mean everything you need to build the Delorean from back to the future). I bet they will have it and it's not too far from where you are. |
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| legendary_waz |
| quote: | | Originally posted by DJ RANN |
Thanks for your reply. Yes I know of Active Surplus.
Just one question regarding the cable that is needed..
So for each ear piece I need 3 conductor (+ ground).
So I will have 2 seperate cables (3 conductor) running into a Y-splitter then each cable will go to each earpiece.. Am I correct?
Something like this?
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| DJ RANN |
| quote: | Originally posted by legendary_waz
Thanks for your reply. Yes I know of Active Surplus.
Just one question regarding the cable that is needed..
So for each ear piece I need 3 conductor (+ ground).
So I will have 2 seperate cables (3 conductor) running into a Y-splitter then each cable will go to each earpiece.. Am I correct?
Something like this?
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No the cable is three conductor TOTAL = 2 (carrying the + and - signals) and 1 (earth). Sometimes the cable will just look like two conductors with a wire shield wrapped/braided around them.
With headphones drivers (think of them like speakers) the positive terminal is one of the center conductors and the earth(shield) is the other. DO that for one side then the other side use the other center conductor to go to the positive and again use the shield/earth for the negative.
That's how you get a Left signal and right signal: The earth is always negative (for both L and R drivers) and each one of the center conductors is the positive. |
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| legendary_waz |
| quote: | Originally posted by DJ RANN
No the cable is three conductor TOTAL = 2 (carrying the + and - signals) and 1 (earth). Sometimes the cable will just look like two conductors with a wire shield wrapped/braided around them.
With headphones drivers (think of them like speakers) the positive terminal is one of the center conductors and the earth(shield) is the other. DO that for one side then the other side use the other center conductor to go to the positive and again use the shield/earth for the negative.
That's how you get a Left signal and right signal: The earth is always negative (for both L and R drivers) and each one of the center conductors is the positive. |
Hmm I have a better idea now, but still a bit confused.
So lets say I have a 3 conductor cable. RED (+), BLACK(-), and BLUE(GND)
So you are saying take the RED to RIGHT and BLACK to LEFT then split the BLUE and give one each to RIGHT AND LEFT?
Thanks. |
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| DJ RANN |
| quote: | Originally posted by legendary_waz
Hmm I have a better idea now, but still a bit confused.
So lets say I have a 3 conductor cable. RED (+), BLACK(-), and BLUE(GND)
So you are saying take the RED to RIGHT and BLACK to LEFT then split the BLUE and give one each to RIGHT AND LEFT?
Thanks. |
Exactly - You take the RED to the Right + positive terminal and the Blue to the positive LEFT terminal, then the GROUND goes to the negative terminal on each side (both L & R).
Then when you wire the mini jack (or 1/4" jack) take the red to the tip (+), the blue to the ring(-) and the ground to the sleeve.
EDIT: The tip on a jack is actually usually the LEFT side, so just do it as above, but swap them on both the headphones and the jack: BLUE = Right, RED = Left. Ground to both. You might find it easier to use a very small 4 conductor wire, twist and solder two of them together at the jack end to connect to the sleeve (ground), then split them to go to the negative terminals on the Left and Right. Hoever this cable might be more difficult to find.....
Good luck!!!! |
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| jakjak9210 |
| not sure if you know this, but the colored wires must be sanded before soldering, otherwise they will not conduct electricity. |
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