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Room size and monitor efficiancy
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| Energy_3 |
I have spoke with my local store but i find them of little help and done some research but feel one not come here and ask you good people!
I have krk 6's and at present have my studio in a room approx 11 by 9 feet untreated with a window. Now i am thinking of moving it into my other room which is 16 by 13 feet approx untreated and also a window. I am going to be getting in the near future some room treatment as i feel im losing a lot of sound. Which option is best for these speakers to be most effective? Smaller or larger room with the idea of being treated in near future!
" Thanks heaps again for help " |
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| evo8 |
| I would say a bigger room is better - also dont forget the height of the room is an important dimension as well |
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| Energy_3 |
| quote: | Originally posted by evo8
I would say a bigger room is better - also dont forget the height of the room is an important dimension as well |
I think my ceiling height is 8 feet. Standard size!
Also whats a reasonably priced material for doing walls etc? |
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| evo8 |
with my limited knowledge 16 x 13 x 8 wouldnt be the worst - the further apart the 3 dimensions are the better
My treatment is from GIK Acoustics - theres a studio section on Gearslutz about doing DIY treatment, maybe be worth checking that out |
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| Zombie0729 |
i mean obviously the best enviorment for listening to music is completely open. that is no reflection points. So the goal with any studio is just that, no reflection points, how to minimize sound bouncing around. my current room is 9 x 13 with a slanted ceiling made of polyboard. it sounded like when i moved in, i spent about $350 and made it sound awesome. I used this guys techniques:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZ4v...feature=related
i didn't use metal studs but 1 x 2 pine (super cheap like 9cents a foot), and i used owens corning 703. I bought 256 sq ft of the 703 for $181. Burlap was about $75 and i used some l-brackets to make it sturdier. Took me 2 days but well worth it |
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| Energy_3 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Zombie0729
i mean obviously the best enviorment for listening to music is completely open. that is no reflection points. So the goal with any studio is just that, no reflection points, how to minimize sound bouncing around. my current room is 9 x 13 with a slanted ceiling made of polyboard. it sounded like when i moved in, i spent about $350 and made it sound awesome. I used this guys techniques:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZ4v...feature=related
i didn't use metal studs but 1 x 2 pine (super cheap like 9cents a foot), and i used owens corning 703. I bought 256 sq ft of the 703 for $181. Burlap was about $75 and i used some l-brackets to make it sturdier. Took me 2 days but well worth it |
Will check that link out cheers. It is so much better in the big room my god the sound was being swampped before imo. Room to move now! Was just mucking about with different sounds last night and just great!
Cheers |
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| DJ RANN |
Couple of things I wanted to add:
First materials....
Owens Corning is the usual choice but that's mainly because you can get it everywhere, even Home Depot or B&Q can get it in for you (although not quite the cheapest source).
When choosing insulation material, think about what frequencies you're looking to damp/absorb/fix; 703 is decent broad spectrum insulation but if low sub bass is your main consideratio you may want to consider 705 or better still, Auralex Fibreboard, which is waaaaaay denser than 703 or even 705.
As for the burlap, you can buy specific burlap, but you can also just go and find a medium weight fabric that allows air to pass through - just out your mouth up to it and force some air though - if you get anything more than minimal resistance it's no good but if it lets air pass through then you're good.
As Anthony did, I wouldn't bother with the metal stud, unless you're doing permanent installation in a commercial environment (in which most states require metal studs rather that wood frames for construction puropses). |
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| Energy_3 |
no worries i have an idea now which is good, though how do i determine how many sound traps i need based on my room size?
thanks heaps to for info :tongue2 |
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| evo8 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Energy_3
no worries i have an idea now which is good, though how do i determine how many sound traps i need based on my room size?
thanks heaps to for info :tongue2 |
you can never have too many traps really - have a look at this link http://gikacoustics.com/room_setup.php
Basic set up is 2 traps on the back wall - a trap at the right and left reflection points - 2 traps above your head - 2 traps on the front wall - 2 traps on the front corners
you could even put 2 traps in the back corners - the more corners you cover the better
obviously some of it will come down to budget - also you might want to think about taking a frequency plot of your room so you can do some before and after testing
sometimes even moving your listening position can be hugely beneficial |
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| Energy_3 |
| quote: | Originally posted by evo8
you can never have too many traps really - have a look at this link http://gikacoustics.com/room_setup.php
Basic set up is 2 traps on the back wall - a trap at the right and left reflection points - 2 traps above your head - 2 traps on the front wall - 2 traps on the front corners
you could even put 2 traps in the back corners - the more corners you cover the better
obviously some of it will come down to budget - also you might want to think about taking a frequency plot of your room so you can do some before and after testing
sometimes even moving your listening position can be hugely beneficial |
Thanks mate, shall check out the link also |
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