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Need vs. Want (aka TA vs. GS) (pg. 2)
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EddieZilker
quote:
Originally posted by Looney4Clooney
so I was banned from there just recently.

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/elec...undtrack-2.html

you have guys using gender as an insult. Yes, the subjugation of women and the atrocities they've had to endure is somehow a good insult . Worse is that I did not state my gender. I could of been female. What the is wrong with audio engineers and producers. I suppose that is what you get when the majority of people ion that field have no higher education, no ability to think and just and overall idiocy that would rival a republican any day of the week.

Again, there are exceptions. School isn't the only path to being a critical thinker but that semi to pro level is something I just can't handle.

VI is pretty much the only forum that doesn't have this influx of idiots. Trance addict , well I still love EDM and use electronic influence all the time so it is worth checking up. Pianoforum is full of christians. I personally know a few people that have been insulted on GS that are legends in their field. They post with a non de plume, you would be idiotic not to and people always say the same lame, lets see your . You have no idea how they have to swallow these baiting tactics because you have no idea how tempting it is for some of them to say , here is my IDMB. But that is just how it works.

Everyone is on GS. I mean everyone. They don't use their real name . THat doesn't mean you are trying to troll. It is just being smart.


Just got done reading that thread and can't, for the life of me, figure out why you got banned. The rest of them are just ridiculous, though. Jesus, what a travesty.
Beatflux
I didn't know M4B hated Daft Punk...wtf?
cryophonik
quote:
Originally posted by Looney4Clooney
so I was banned from there just recently.


Watching guys in that thread try to (mis)comprehend your argument was truly gutwrenchingly funny. I'm pretty shocked that you got banned for that. I've seen GS guys fly into rages and throw out the most degrading personal insults you can imagine over something as stupid as a microphone preference and not get the ban hammer.

BTW, I love how they keep referring to you as an old fart. Shows how clueless they are - someone who has more knowledge and experience than them MUST be twice their age, right? :rolleyes:
cryophonik
quote:
Originally posted by Beatflux
I didn't know M4B hated Daft Punk...wtf?


quote:
Originally posted by MadforBrad
love them

your point ?


But, even if he does hate Daft Punk,...

quote:
Originally posted by MadforBrad
your point ?
Timothy
quote:
Originally posted by cryophonik
One thing I've noticed over the years is that TA and gearslutz are practically polar opposites when it comes to buying or recommending gear, software, etc. I don't think I've ever seen a thread on TA regarding an equipment or software purchase that didn't have several "you don't need that" sort of responses. And, if a newb comes on here and asks about buying a hardware synth, they practically get hammered.

Gearslutz, of course, is obviously all about excess. If a newb asks about buying hardware over there, yeah, he'll get some people suggesting starting with software instead. But, by and large, people will encourage going with hardware if he can afford it and if that's what he wants. After all, most musicians do learn to play on a hardware instrument, but for some reason, that notion seems to be lost here. The TA mentality seems to be that you should only buy what you need, regardless of what you want.

So, why the discrepancy here? Are TAs just that much more frugal?

Also, please note that this isn't intended to be another boring HW/SW debate, rather a need-vs-want debate, which can apply to someone wanting to buy expensive software as well, even though they may not need it.


On TA, people say you don't need hardware X, because they get pirated software for free. You can't download hardware.
DJ RANN
quote:
Originally posted by Timothy
On TA, people say you don't need hardware X, because they get pirated software for free. You can't download hardware.


That might be a small part of it but don't forget, hardware is not as flexible, you have to buy 3 physical units if you want 3 instances and software does not cost anywhere as much even when it's bought and paid for. It also doesn't take up space in your studio, require cables or maintenance. Those are all real world contraints for TA's.
Andy28
quote:
Originally posted by Timothy
On TA, people say you don't need hardware X, because they get pirated software for free. You can't download hardware.


Or simply you just don't need it:rolleyes:





and you'll also be pretty stupid to pay for pirated software.
DJRYAN™
Well, my midi keyboard has officially shot craps.. I can still use the controls, but I've stamp'd out several of the keys so now I'm either drawing, or using keys that are still working.. So, I ask'd for this for Christmas.. Here's hoping I get it..

DJ RANN
quote:
Originally posted by DJRYAN™
Well, my midi keyboard has officially shot craps.. I can still use the controls, but I've stamp'd out several of the keys so now I'm either drawing, or using keys that are still working.. So, I ask'd for this for Christmas.. Here's hoping I get it..


Well then here;s my early xmas present to you:

quote:
Originally posted by DJ RANN

Ralpheee, if your keyboard is in waranty take it back and demand a repair FOC. if not then......

before you begin, you will need:

switch cleaner or contact cleaner spray.

flathead precision screwdriver

phillips screwdriver

qtips or earbuds

cotton cloth (non fluffy)

needlenose pliers

please read the instructions through at least once before attempting this and if you think it sounds beyond you, don't try it - you could just brick your keyboard totally.

finally, I am doing this all from memory so there might be stage (like unscrewing something minor) that I have missed so please use common sense when performing this fix (i.e. if you undo something to get to the next stage, remember to do it back up when reassmbling).

I have done this more times than I care to remember and I am a qulified service technician for just about every known brand on the audio market so believe me this does work, but I take no resposibilty for broken items and you do this at your own risk........

unscrew the black screws on the underside of the casing, closest to the edges. these hold the darker, lower casing to the upper silver casing.

you should now be able to remove the silver upper casing if you pull it towards you to clear the protruding keys. you will need to lift up the front bit so it opens like a chest. be careful here because the ribbon connectors will be exposed and you don't want to be too rough with them. take note of which ones are connected to what(take a photo if in doubt). the top should now be completely separate.

now unscrew the screws on the underside that hold the keys in place.

you can now remove the keys one by one, using either needle nose pliers or a smallis screwdriver, to lift the top part of the springs over the lip of it's beveled hole. you will have to do this in a manner not to damage or bent either the hole the sprimg sits in or the spring itself. you can remove springs as you remove each key or you can remove all the springs then slide each key out one by one. I can't quite remember exactly but you have to either push the keys down or up to be able to slide the keys out so they clear the plastic hook underneath. It sounds complcated but once you figure out how to remove one it becoms really easy.

the white keys have to be removed so the black keys can slide out but I would remove them from right to left and place the keys somewhere in the same order as you remove them so its easy to put them back afterwards.

when this is done you should see the grey rubber sensors that the keys touch to trigger. each rubber sensor set is about 8 units (keys) long. very carefully, pull up the edge of the rubber unit at the point where the positioning legs go through the holes and note how there are large and smaller legs to make sure correct placement is maintained. pull them up from right left and the legs should pop out as you pull up - remember, do this slowly and gently. when you have removed all the rubber sensors you will see the black pcb contacts.

not get your switch cleaner and spray the out of it and don't be afraid to drench it. clean thougroughly with a non fluffy cloth and remove any surrounding dirt from inside the keyboard.

now om the boardwhich has the ribbon connector recepticles, you need to clean them carefullý (do not bend any pins) with switch cleaner and with a flathead precision screwdriver, lightly score the surface of each of the pins.

now spray the rubber contact units on the circular black parts that actually make contact with the PCB contacts. use an earbud to wipe each one clean but be careful with the spray as you don't want to freeze the rubber or it will become brittle and break.

now push the larger positioning leg on the rubber unit back in to the hole on the PCB that it came from. then line up the legs in pairs, pushing them back in to their corresponding holes, working from one side slowly to the other. repeat this for all the rubber trigger units. when they are all in place, push down on where the legs go in to the holes one by and make sure they are all driven home properly, and make sure that they are all on perfectly straight.

now start placing the keys back in the reverse order you took them in, remembering that you have to anticipate for the black keys otherwise the next white ones won't go in properly. you will have to make sure, just like the reverse of how you took them out, that you hook them in place then slide each key in (you should be able to get a knack of doing this)

once all the keys are in place, the springs can be put back in the holes to give the keys tension again. I found it easiest to put the bottom part of the spring in the hole and lift the top up and away with the flathead screwdriver until you clear the upper edge of the key and drop the top part of the spring back in the hole. aain there is a knack to this which shouldn't be too difficult to get hang of.

once this has been done, screw the keys back to the lower casing, connct the robbon cables and slide the upper casing back on to the bottom and screw the whole unit back together.

hopefully this should fix any problems with broken keys and prolong the life of your keyboard.

if this hasn't worked it means you have a component issue and it will need to go back for repair.

finally I apologise for any wierd spelling or grammer as my computer is giving me grief amd I have written thos from my phone.

good luck!!!!
djshire
Its all been said...they're older, they have more money, its a dick wagging contest....and they're very strict on what you can and can't say. I got an infraction point for saying "[forum member] likes loli" because he had this picture in his studio.

That's Rikku from Final Fantasy X, and she's 15 years old in the game...I was just giving the guy , but he took it seriously and reported me. I'm also banned from the thread that all that was posted in.

ralpheeee
quote:
Originally posted by DJ RANN
Well then here;s my early xmas present to you:


LOL - talk about dredging up an old post Rann - anyways, that was good advice, it did work, for a while at least, ended up having to replace the keyboard about 1 year later anyway, but it still extended the lifespan.
DJ RANN
quote:
Originally posted by ralpheeee
LOL - talk about dredging up an old post Rann - anyways, that was good advice, it did work, for a while at least, ended up having to replace the keyboard about 1 year later anyway, but it still extended the lifespan.


Lol,I was thinking the timing was funny as you posted in the other thread then Ryan starts asking about broken keys!

I got about the same from the repair - I got another 18 months from mine when i fixed it, then another 6 months when i did it again, but after that there was no more life left in it.

Glad it helped though and good to see you posting back here again!
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