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A car stereo question.
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| wwu.punisher |
I have a decent stereo going in my 1995 Toyota Camry.
Here's what I have at the moment...
- Kenwood KDC-MP425
- 6.5" Pioneer Speakers - Front (180w x2)
- 6x9" Pioneer Speakers - Rear (240w x2)
- Sony XPlod Amp (500w x4 Channels)
- 8" Bazooka Tube Sub (250w)
In a nutshell, the sub and amp died on me, but the speakers are just dandy. I have a wiring kit that supports up to 2,000 watts, so I'm fine in that department. What I want to do is get ahold of a new amp and a 10" sub with a box. I've been looking, and I plan to buy one of the Pioneer 10" subs that Circuit City sells on their website for $50. I'm also going to snag one of their QLogic boxes for another $50.
I plan to buy the amp via EBay, but can't decide what brand to go with or what wattage. I need either a 2 or a 4 channel amp, obviously, but I can't decide on a brand. I'm willing to spend $100 maximum on the amp... maybe $120 shipped. NO MORE THAN THAT.
Anyone got any idea as to what amp/wattage I should buy to continue powering the front speakers AND a 10" sub that peaks at 500w? (No listing on what the RMS power is, but I'm sure it's nothing too crazy.)
EDIT: After testing it by switching off the channels, I found that there is in fact not a damn thing wrong with the sub. It was the amp. |
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| Rob |
Why do you need a 4 channel amp for, obviously? Your head unit should be able to power both the front and rear speakers (I have a sony xplod 4*50 head unit), and a 2 channel sony MOSFET amp bridged into 1 channel putting out 480W (XM280GTX).
I never knew sony had a 500w amp tho. What model number is it?
Sony had a 222W amp (good for 1 sub), and a 444W good for 2 subs (2 * 222W each channel). The sony 222w amp is fine for running a sub with a rated power of around 300w.
My sub's peak power is 1400w(rated power 400w) and I can run it fine with my 1 channel 480w amp.
You really need to check the specs of the sub, but generally they need an amp = to the rated power, not the peak:
800w peak (250w rated power)
1100w peak (300w rated power)
1200w peak (350w rated power)
1400w peak (400w rated power) |
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| Omega_Blue |
definitely go with a two channel amp. four channels for a sub is pointless. make sure the amp is bridgeable... and you should be good. really there isn't a whole lot of good brands $100. i suggest trying to find a sub and amp together for like $200 on ebay or something. and i'd also stay away from sony, but then again with the cash you're dealing with i guess you don't have a choice. i'm sure you could find some cheap audiobahns or something.
and the head unit should be able to adequately power all of your speakers unless you're running a cd player through your tape deck or something ghetto like that. |
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| Rob |
| If you want to power 1 sub, you need an amp that's bridgeable into 1 channel. 4 channel amps are to ususally run 2 subs (ie. bridge two of the channels together so it's 2 channels putting out alot of wattage). |
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| dj_mdma |
| quote: | Originally posted by Rob
Why do you need a 4 channel amp for, obviously? Your head unit should be able to power both the front and rear speakers (I have a sony xplod 4*50 head unit), and a 2 channel sony MOSFET amp bridged into 1 channel putting out 480W (XM280GTX).
I never knew sony had a 500w amp tho. What model number is it?
Sony had a 222W amp (good for 1 sub), and a 444W good for 2 subs (2 * 222W each channel). The sony 222w amp is fine for running a sub with a rated power of around 300w.
My sub's peak power is 1400w(rated power 400w) and I can run it fine with my 1 channel 480w amp.
You really need to check the specs of the sub, but generally they need an amp = to the rated power, not the peak:
800w peak (250w rated power)
1100w peak (300w rated power)
1200w peak (350w rated power)
1400w peak (400w rated power) |
the 222W amp and 444W amp are no good for subs at all. There rated power is only (off the top of my head 40-70 W RMS) and no sub will like getting such a piffling wattage. I use my 444W one to power 2 6x9's and thats it.It matches the RMS rating so i'm good to go.
For my Alpine Type R sub which has a 300W RMS rating (1000W peak) i use a sony 2165 GTX which puts out 400W rMS into one channel i believe.
i have my head unit running some other sony speakers on the dash to close to the RMS rating (i think the head unit pushes out 25 W RMS) and the speakers take 35W RMS. By meeting RMS rating you can push everything harder before sound starts to distort |
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| Rob |
| quote: | Originally posted by dj_mdma
the 222W amp and 444W amp are no good for subs at all. There rated power is only (off the top of my head 40-70 W RMS) and no sub will like getting such a piffling wattage. I use my 444W one to power 2 6x9's and thats it.It matches the RMS rating so i'm good to go.
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The 222w is either 2 * 90w, or bridged as 1 channel putting out 222w.
The 444w can be bridged as 2 channels putting out 222w each.
This is enough power to run any entry to medium level subs on the market.
The reason I bought the Sony GTX was because I needed a 480w'ish amp to power a 15" sony sub (it was rated at 400w, peak = 1400w). If I was just running a little 10" I would have gone for the 222.
If you do have the 2165 GTX that's ing overkill. It's 1*1000w (or 2*500w) and mostly used for competition :wtf: |
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| dj_mdma |
the 2165 GTX is 1000W peak so its not overkill ;)
the 222W one can give out 222W bridged, but its a peak rating not an RMS rating, i'm absolutely sure of that dude! Don't run your stuff too hard otherwise you'll burn out the voicecoils! Its so tiny, i could generate more RMS wattage by running on a dynamo lol. |
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| dj_mdma |
i forgot, you can run all sony amps at lower resistances thereby effectively doubling the power. So the power ratings i'm on about are at 4 Ohm's Resistance. If you're runnin subs with 2 Ohm voicecoils and using the amps at 2 ohms, then its alright ;)
that would also mean that if i ran my 2165 GTX at 2 ohms i'd get 800W RMS :crazy: |
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| wwu.punisher |
Alright. I went out and checked the amp again today. As it turns out, half of the amp is dead, while the other half is working fine. I'm going to take it out, however, and am selling the Bazooka tube. After thinking about it, I decided that I'm probably going to do this...
1.) Switch the front speakers back to the MOSFET amp on the deck.
2.) Purchase this subwoofer/amp package.
Audiobahn (2) 10" Subwoofers and Audiobahn 200W 2-Channel Amp
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ABN2102002T
3.) Purchase this subwoofer enclosure.
Q-Logic Dual 10" Subwoofer Enclosure
http://www.cardomain.com/item/QLCQLH6510DE
Seems like a good deal to me. Better than I can find anywhere else, at least. |
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| dj_mdma |
if you do both option 2 or 3 then you'll have 4 10" subs:p
option 2 is a good deal, its matches power ratings enough i'd say.
if you go with option 3 you will still have to buy an additional amp, as that price is just for 2 subs and a box. |
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| wwu.punisher |
| Eh? They aren't options... 2 is the Audiobahn woofers and amp. 3 is the enclosure. I don't see where it says that the enclosure comes with extra woofers? (Maybe the link is different on my system because of cache or something... I'll check.) |
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| igottaknow |
| quote: | Originally posted by wwu.punisher
I have a decent stereo going in my 1995 Toyota Camry.
Here's what I have at the moment...
- Kenwood KDC-MP425
- 6.5" Pioneer Speakers - Front (180w x2)
- 6x9" Pioneer Speakers - Rear (240w x2)
- Sony XPlod Amp (500w x4 Channels)
- 8" Bazooka Tube Sub (250w)
In a nutshell, the sub and amp died on me, but the speakers are just dandy. |
Now you know why they call it Sony Xplode hahaha! I've heard so many ppl complain about it. |
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