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Imac 24" 2.93ghz (pg. 4)
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View this Thread in Original format
| Energy_3 |
times like these is when i really benifit from this thread. Good stuff thanks for the information guys. really appreciate it.
for now I only going to be using the internal HD which, wil do, see how things go but soon upgarde to an external as well. Def going the firewire interface though.
thanks people |
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| Cryogen |
| quote: | Originally posted by palm
i fried only one IDE-disc by trying to install hackintosh on it. then i asked on the hackintosh forum and everybody was like "lol did u try to install it on a IDE disc? dumb ". then i said goodbye s im getting the real thing. |
:haha: :haha: :haha:
Didn't know about the IDE thing, why does that fry the drive ?
I wouldn't wait on getting an external drive either. With all my warped Ableton tracks and my music collection I'd be in the if I popped a drive with no back up. You can get terrabyte drives for about £70, it really isn't worth the risk.
I have a Western Digital drive and I'd advise against getting one. It's the noisiest drive I've ever heard. Lots of horrible grinding noises. Would do my head in to leave it on permanently. I do what Palm does and turn it on every 10 days when Time Machine reminds you that you haven't backed up recently :haha: |
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| palm |
i dont know about the IDE thing, i didnt care, the whole hackintosh project sucked ass. ever tried to read a hackers manual? its like this:
1. put in the install DVD
2. dont ask where to find the DVD-image
3. use this tool to burn out the image (if u have found it) *
4. follow the instructions on the DVD
5. before installing make sure u have addition needed software burned on a CD. **
6. find drivers for audio, mouse, screen using google.
7. read the hardware guide on what hardware this doesnt work on.
8. read this thread (a link) about success storys.
* must be a SATA dvd-burner
** read about the different kinds of bootloaders in this thread. |
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| kitphillips |
| quote: | Originally posted by DJ RANN
Energy - the only main difference between USB (2.0) and firewire is FW has a faster sustained rate of transfer (even though peak speeds are basically equal) and it is a peer to peer system where USB is master slave. Therefore Firewire is better for interfaces where a large bandwidth of date is transmitted and received over a sustained period.
Couple of things with FW devices:
1,Always, eject the FW device before removing - it's not like USB where most times you can just pull it out.
2, NEVER, (and I mean NEVER), use them without the power supply, even if they manual says it's ok. You would not believe the amount of times I've seen a FW drive or interface go pop from hotswapping without the power supply. The other thing is that 99% of times, the FW bridge is the thing that is the weakness with FW, not the device itself. If you accidently trip over or pull out the FW cable with the PSU plugged in, you are far less likely to have damage to the FW device - without the PSU plugged in, you've got a very good chance of killing the device.
Just ask Palm ;) |
Apparently firewire data is loaded directly into memory, whereas the USB data goes through the processor (or maybe just the frontside bus) anyway, long story short, firewire results in less CPU usage. This from a friend of mine who was telling me about a virus that exploited the fact that instructions could be loaded directly into memory.
Also, is every firewire device vulnerable to the hotswapping problem? I know RME are supposed to be impervious to such silliness, is it only cheap gear that has this problem? Pretty poor design either way... |
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| Alekos |
| I'm always extremely careful when using FW. It fired my HD and Interface once - different times btw |
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| palm |
| quote: | Originally posted by kitphillips
Also, is every firewire device vulnerable to the hotswapping problem? I know RME are supposed to be impervious to such silliness, is it only cheap gear that has this problem? Pretty poor design either way... |
as i said in my wall of text, ive only had problem with Echo Audiofire 2. Probably because of two things: no powerbutton + ty homemade computer with grounding issues. Audiofire 4 works without any problem on my macbook and ive been trying to rape it. |
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| Energy_3 |
few i thought i was going to have to pray everytime i use a FW device!
:tongue3 |
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| RichieV |
| i hate firewire. I hate how macs keep using things that don't quite work for the sake of being unique. If they just lost a bit of the ego and that culture bs, i think they would be a little better. The need to stop reinventing the mouse and get some esata ports. |
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| palm |
| their mouse is pretty terrible though so it sure needed to be reinvented. |
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| RichieV |
| my mac came with the 2008 mouse model. The one that won't let you press left or right independently. And then there was the one mouse button thing. I honestly can't think of any logical reason other than hype. |
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| palm |
| theres also something weird when im using my favorit logitech mouse, it somehow works differently on a mac than on PC (or OS X contra Win). Seems like its not going on x,y, cordinates, but rather, speed and angle, or actually acceleration. When im moving the mouse really slow, the pointer doesnt move at all. when im moving it fast it just jumps over the whole screen. weirdo. i want it to move the same speed as my hand. if i move the hand 10 cm left i want the pointer to move 10cm left, not 20 cm if i do it fast or 2cm if i do it slow, this annoys the hell out of me especialy when trying to precisely, adjust small knobs in Reason. |
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| Alekos |
system preferences / Mouse / Calibrate
As long as I remember, Logitech "tools" usually come with a install disc, have you tried it? I might fix the issues you are having with ur mouse.
I really like the new Mac mouse :) btw |
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