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Tips for buying a car. (pg. 15)
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| malek |
| quote: | Originally posted by *~LiSa-LoO~*
I rounded up, but he said he's give it to me for $23K. Once I make a final decision I plan on calling the dealers in Chatham and seeing what they'll give me, and do a bit more negotiation. |
The best way to beat depreciation is to buy the car 1 year old because that's the year the car looses most of its value.
And diginut, a 6 year old focus must be one of the first gen kind, which were not too reliable to begin with. |
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| Sentinal |
| quote: | Originally posted by *~LiSa-LoO~*
I looked online and there were no Mazda or Toyota dealers in Tilbury, but there were in Chatham, so I'm going to call them this week and find out what they can offer me.
I told the Mazda dealer in Windsor that we'd pay cash and he gave me a $500 discount, and $500 for being a recent grad. But he said there wasn't much room to budge since it was a 2010 model. But then again, that could be me being totally gullible. |
The Mazda dealer here told me the EXACT same thing. But then the sales manager came in and offered 20700 cash for the 2010 Mazda 3. |
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| JoyRyde |
| quote: | Originally posted by *~LiSa-LoO~*
I looked online and there were no Mazda or Toyota dealers in Tilbury, but there were in Chatham, so I'm going to call them this week and find out what they can offer me.
I told the Mazda dealer in Windsor that we'd pay cash and he gave me a $500 discount, and $500 for being a recent grad. But he said there wasn't much room to budge since it was a 2010 model. But then again, that could be me being totally gullible. |
Hahaha. If you're going to make a cash payment, you will DEFINITELY get a significant discount. My dad paid cash and negotiated for almost 4 hours and got major discounts.
Goto the manager. The salesperson can only give so much discount without consulting the manager. If you are going to pay more than 20,000-25000 in cash I would expect atleast 4000-5000+ in discounts and maybe some free oil changes, gas cards,etc etc(these build up). Take your time in negotiating, it takes a while sometimes. |
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| malek |
| Am I the only one who think that the going to the manager stunt is just a gimmick by the salesman to pretend he got an exceptional deal for the customer? |
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| *~LiSa-LoO~* |
| quote: | Originally posted by Sentinal
The Mazda dealer here told me the EXACT same thing. But then the sales manager came in and offered 20700 cash for the 2010 Mazda 3. |
Which one? I'm looking at the GS with the Comfort Package (Traction and stability control and moonroof) |
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| Abercrombie |
| quote: | Originally posted by malek
Am I the only one who think that the going to the manager stunt is just a gimmick by the salesman to pretend he got an exceptional deal for the customer? |
It's part of the game. Several back and forths, and a whole lot of blah blah. That's why one should always walk away after the first negotiating. They always called me back the next day or two with a better offer or gave in to what I wanted. It's a buyer's market out there, everyone should use this power. |
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| Sentinal |
| quote: | Originally posted by *~LiSa-LoO~*
Which one? I'm looking at the GS with the Comfort Package (Traction and stability control and moonroof) |
Hey Lisa, I was distracted by other threads, like Sophia, I seriously gagged. Anyways the Mazda 3 was a GX. Just the barebones basic model. It will be an extra 895 to add the moonroof. |
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| *~LiSa-LoO~* |
| quote: | | Originally posted by JoyRyde |
I'm thinking the Corolla > Mazda for my purposes. Although the Mazda is nice and sporty for a 25 year old, the fuel economy isn't as good, the resale value nor the maintenance costs are quite as good as the Corolla, and I plan on having the car for a long time. A friend had mentioned the sportier Corolla though if my concern is that the Corolla is more of an older person car. So maybe I could do what you suggested and get them to lower the price of the Sport Corolla to the cost of the normal one that I'm looking at. That way I'm dealing with one salesperson. Thanks for the suggestion.
| quote: | Originally posted by Sentinal
Hey Lisa, I was distracted by other threads, like Sophia, I seriously gagged. Anyways the Mazda 3 was a GX. Just the barebones basic model. It will be an extra 895 to add the moonroof. |
lol Ya, I guess that would explain the price difference since I was looking at the model one up from that. |
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| 1dawoman |
| quote: | Originally posted by *~LiSa-LoO~*
2. Toyota Corolla CE w/enhanced convenience package $23,413
-Liked the way this drove, and know a lot of people who have had their cars for years with little to no problems.
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Im also in that boat....Ive had my 2000 Corolla for almost 10 years and am very happy with it....even through a few fender benders, it has continued to be a reliable and low maintenance car.
I am now helping my parents purchace a 2010 Camry LE. The ticket price was about $30 100....and we got it down to $28 600. Obviously....no one in my family is a good negotiater so I was wondering what a good offer would be...I was thinking to go in with $26 500 since i've read that the actual cost is somewhere near $23 000....I'm a big n00b when it comes to bargaining.... |
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| *~LiSa-LoO~* |
| quote: | Originally posted by 1dawoman
Im also in that boat....Ive had my 2000 Corolla for almost 10 years and am very happy with it....even through a few fender benders, it has continued to be a reliable and low maintenance car.
I am now helping my parents purchace a 2010 Camry LE. The ticket price was about $30 100....and we got it down to $28 600. Obviously....no one in my family is a good negotiater so I was wondering what a good offer would be...I was thinking to go in with $26 500 since i've read that the actual cost is somewhere near $23 000....I'm a big n00b when it comes to bargaining.... |
I've heard that alot about the Corolla's. Not so much with the Mazda's.
I'm also bad at negotiating, so I'm interested in what people have to say about this! |
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| OrZonE |
If you know the true value of the car you're 80% of the way there. I am not sure on expenses dealers accrue on new cars as I've only purchased and looked at used cars. In the case of a used car I always know the wholesale value of the car and never offer more than 1K above that price. Not all dealers go for it, so be prepared to walk away. Never trust a dealer, unless you know them personally. Don't let a dealer tell you there's no more room to negotiate on the car (if there really were no room he'd be selling it to you at cost). Never forget, you should never want to buy a car as much as a dealer should want to sell it (or at least never show it:)). As mentioned before, you should work the price UP from your offer, not DOWN from their. I personally don't lowball too much though, my offer is usually within 500$ of my max.
I just spent 2 months looking for a car for myself and successfully bought one, so I know how tedious this process can be. |
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| *~LiSa-LoO~* |
| quote: | Originally posted by OrZonE
I just spent 2 months looking for a car for myself and successfully bought one, so I know how tedious this process can be. |
Some of the car salesmen sure don't. I can't tell you how many phone calls and emails I've gotten in the last few weeks. Every time I just say "thank you for the information, I'm looking at a number of cars. I will contact YOU if I have any more questions"
What kind of car did you buy? |
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